Dr. Gizmo Column

Send your automobile questions to drgizmo@drgizmo.ws 

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“Dr. Gizmo”

By Phil Arendt

Time To Check For Recalls    

Question 1

I’m a faithful reader.  As a former owner of a 2011 Kia Optima I know that the 2.4 liter engines have been recalled due to problems with engine contamination during manufacturing causing bearing failures. Kia is replacing the affected engines.  I don’t understand why this isn’t public knowledge.  Can you help?  D.D., email

Answer 1

I’m here to assist.  The issue with the engine is public knowledge.  The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration issued the recall a while back.  Owners of affected vehicles were notified as well.  Unfortunately, many owners ignore recall notifications delivered in the mail.  Often dealership service personnel proactively contact owners about recalls.  Also, vehicle owners interested in learning if their vehicle is affected by a recall can jump on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website.  For best results all an owner needs to do is type in their vehicle identification number.  Recalls affecting their vehicle will pop up.  The website to visit is www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Vaporous Leak Not Discovered

Question 2

I recently replaced a solenoid valve at the rear gas filler side of my mother-in-law’s 2001 Chevy Impala with 72,000 miles.  This did not delete the service engine lite on the dashboard.

I took it to my auto mechanic.  He said it didn’t pass the smoke test so he put on another solenoid valve.  He said the one I put on was faulty.  The engine symbol lite came on the next day.

I took the car back to him.  He checked over for bad grounds and other issues but the engine symbol wouldn’t go off.  He thinks it is a computer problem.  He said I should go to a dealer because he doesn’t do computer and reprograming work.

I believe the original code was 0442.  The car runs fine but I will soon have to go through an emission test.  I haven’t done that yet.  I wonder why the car runs so well, even though it is so old.  I’d to salvage this car and not put more money into it than it is worth.  

I installed a new purge solenoid valve and gas cap on the car prior to going to my mechanic.  I have no idea what a computer for this car is going to cost.  Do you think it is worthwhile for a Chevrolet dealer to spend an hour or so on diagnostic work?  Thanks for your time.  D.H., email

Answer 2

The code you mention relates to a small leak in the evaporative emissions system.  When this code appears the check engine light illuminates but there are no performance issues such as an engine misfire or rough running condition.  The issue might be caused by a crack in a hose, cracked canister, loose clamp, pin hole in the fuel tank, leaky seal on the fuel tank and more.  Leaks such as these are elusive and often difficult to pinpoint.  It’s not likely this is caused by a computer issue.        

It appears your technician has surrendered any further work to another shop.  A trip to a dealership or another reputable independent shop might be the path to take to a lasting cure.

Fix For Oil Leak Is Huge Task 

Question 3

I have a 2008 Buick Enclave CX with a 3.6 engine that is dripping oil.  It has 211,000 miles and runs like new so I’m not opposed to spend some money on repairs.  I’ve owned it since it was new and have not had any problems with it until this oil leak appeared.  It’s pretty bad.  I see new drips in my garage every day.

I went to a shop about the issue.  They think the leak is at the front of the engine.  To fix the trouble they want to remove the engine.  They say the front of it needs disassembly.  They also said because of the mileage the timing chain should be replaced.  It’s an expensive job.  Does this sound right to you?  S.K., email

Answer 3

A few drips on the garage floor every day is a symptom of a significant leak.  Oil is leaking at a faster rate when you drive.  Keep a close watch on the oil level until this is repaired.  Keep it full.  You don’t want the engine to seize due to a lack of oil.

As for the suggested repair, yes indeed your shop is providing the best path to follow.  If the engine does not show signs of excessive wear and you have provided frequent and regular preventive maintenance the investment should have the engine powering along 300,000 miles.

Failed Relay Impairs Starts

Question 4

Last week the starter in my 2009 Jeep Patriot Sport with a 2.4-liter engine quit.  My Jeep has 133,628 miles.  I installed a new one but still nothing happens when I turn the key.  I checked all the fuses.  They are fine.  I had the battery tested at an auto supply store.  It’s good to go.  I also checked ground wires like you always suggest.  They were tight but I disassembled them and made sure there is no corrosion.  I even tried a different starter but no luck.  What do you suggest?  M.S., email

Answer 4

The issue might be due to a fault in the Totally Integrated Module which is a computer and power distribution center.  These have a history of trouble but before you do anything, check the starter relay.  It’s in a load center along with other relays.  Corrosion might be the cause of failure.  If so, it might be time to send the vehicle to a shop.  A technician might need to replace corroded terminals or even the entire electrical panel.

Basic Check Might Find Cause Of Trouble 

Question 5

After I drive a while my 2000 Ford Mustang with a 3.8-liter engine and manual transmission begins to misfire and run rough.  As I continue to drive I hear a clacking sound and soon after the engine stalls.  It won’t restart right away.  I have to wait until it cools for about 30 minutes before it will start.  This does not happen every time I drive. 

Recently, I went to a quick lube shop for an oil change.  After the service the car was idling and began to make the clacking sound.  Then, it quit.  The guys at the shop said it sounded like there is a major problem in the engine.  I had it towed to another shop. 

The new shop did many tests but found no problem codes.  They drove the car but it ran fine for them. 

The next day the car acted up for me.  I waited until it cooled down and drove back to the shop but tests did not find any problems.  Do you have any suggestions?  N.R., email

Answer 5

This is interesting.  No problem found during tests and drives but the engine makes clacking sounds and stalls.

This suggestion might seem silly but has anyone checked the coolant level in the engine.  The engine might be overheating.  The sound you hear might be coolant boiling or perhaps pre-ignition or spark knock due to overheating.  If so, bringing the coolant to a proper level might be the cure for the condition.  Of course, if a technician finds the coolant level is low it would be wise to look for leaks and repair them as needed.

Fan Makes Objectionable Sound

Question 6

Hello, instead of giving you advice, I have a question.  I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada with 165,000 miles.  I love this car.  It has all the bells and whistles.  I have almost rebuilt the whole car.  Recently, the water pump pooped out.  A shop replaced the water pump, fan clutch and radiator.  Now my Bravada sounds like a jet engine when it starts up and going down the road.  It’s always been loud when first started but it calms down as it warms up, but now it’s LOUD.  It quiets down a bit after it warms up but it’s still real loud going down the road.  Our mechanic checked it out.  We did too.  Everything is to specification.  

What’s worse is a bad muffler or jet engine sneaking away in the morning.  Can you help?  K.B., email

Answer 6

Dr. Gizmo appreciates all the advice.  I need all the help I can get.  After all there are about 500,000 million cars on the road and lots of readers of this column.  Thanks for all your advice. 

As for the sound your SUV makes, more than likely what you hear is the engine cooling fan drawing air through the radiator.  The fan clutch is supposed to control the fan so that at low speeds and certain temperatures the fan turns.  At higher speeds and certain temperature the clutch releases so the fan does not draw air.  Right now the fan clutch might be doing a proper job so the difference in the sound you hear might be due to a lack of fan control by the previous failed fan clutch. 

Ask your favorite technician to check.  The newly installed fan clutch might be defective and not releasing the cooling fan when it should. 

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. 

03/19/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present