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Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Recall Recap For The Week Of October 28, 2013

Good day everyone!

Since returning to business from the partial government shut down that didn't affect the majority of us the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has been busy announcing recalls at break-neck speed and volume. Apparently, the agency is in catch up mode.

Issues announced last week include but are not limited to brakes that apply on their own, potential for electrical fires, failed brakes, failed flooring, engine cooling fan blades that break, fuel tanks that might drop out of vehicles, axle shafts that might break and labels that might fall off.

Please check this list of recalls.  If your vehicle is affected, please have the issue repaired as soon as possible.   


Please click on the following NHTSA Campaign ID links to view the recall information.

NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Honda (American Honda Motor Co.)
Make / Model Years :
HONDA / 2007-2008
Subject :
Brakes may Unexpectedly Apply
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
General Motors LLC
Make / Model Years :
CHEVROLET / 2014
GMC / 2014
Subject :
Head Restraints/FMVSS 202a
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
New Flyer Industries Ltd.
Make / Model Years :
NEW FLYER / 2004-2006
Subject :
Battery Equalizers/DC-DC Converters-Possible Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Bentley Motors, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
BENTLEY / 2007-2011
Subject :
Brake Rotor attaching Screws may fail
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Volvo Bus Corporation
Make / Model Years :
VOLVO BUS / 2013
Subject :
Park Brake may not fully set
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Automobili Lamborghini America LLC
Make / Model Years :
LAMBORGHINI / 2007-2009
Subject :
Brake Rotor attaching Screws may fail
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Automobili Lamborghini America LLC
Make / Model Years :
LAMBORGHINI / 2006-2010
Subject :
Brake Rotor attaching Screws may fail
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Collins Bus Corporation
Make / Model Years :
COLLINS / 2009-2010
Subject :
Electric Door Actuator May Lead to Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Daimler Trucks North America
Make / Model Years :
THOMAS BUILT BUSES / 2013
Subject :
Floor Joints May Not Stay Joined
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Spartan Motors, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
SPARTAN / 2011-2012
Subject :
Radiator Cooling Fan Blades may Break
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Dressen Custom Trailers, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
DRESSEN / 2006-2013
Subject :
Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Setra of North America
Make / Model Years :
SETRA / 2011-2014
Subject :
Light Control Unit Short Circuit/Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
General Motors LLC
Make / Model Years :
CHEVROLET / 2013-2014
Subject :
Fuel Tank may Separate from Car
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
General Motors LLC
Make / Model Years :
CHEVROLET / 2013-2014
Subject :
Air Bag Warning Label May Detach from Sun Visor
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Cargo Craft, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
CARGO CRAFT / 2006-2013
Subject :
Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Lakota Corporation
Make / Model Years :
LAKOTA / 2013-2014
Subject :
Fumes or Gases May Enter Vehicle Interior
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Coach and Equipment Mfg Corp.
Make / Model Years :
COACH & EQUIPMENT / 2009-2010
Subject :
Electric Door Actuator May Lead to Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
New Flyer Industries Ltd.
Make / Model Years :
NEW FLYER / 2012
Subject :
Parts may Fall from Bicycle Rack
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
North American Bus Industries, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
BLUE BIRD / 2007-2009
NABI / 2000-2011
OPTIMA / 2000-2009
Subject :
Battery Equalizers-Possible Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Nissan North America, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
NISSAN / 2014
Subject :
Frontal Passenger Air Bag may not Deploy Properly
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
NOV Rolligon
Make / Model Years :
ROLLIGON / 2011-2012
Subject :
Rear Trailer Suspension Missing Weld
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
BMW of North America, LLC
Make / Model Years :
BMW / 2012-2014
Subject :
Loss of Brake Assist/Vacuum Pump Lubrication
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Spartan Motors, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
SPARTAN MOTORS / 2011-2013
Subject :
Front Sway Bar may Detach/Loss of Brakes
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
General Motors LLC
Make / Model Years :
CHEVROLET / 2013-2014
Subject :
Front Right Half Shaft may Fracture
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Nissan North America, Inc.
Make / Model Years :
NISSAN / 2013
Subject :
Brake Master Cylinder may Reduce Braking Power
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :
Manufacturer :
AMERICAN HAULER
Make / Model Years :
AMERICAN HAULER / 2006-2010
Subject :
Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable





Friday, November 1, 2013

Dr. Gizmo Column


"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt
 
A/C Warms When Cruising
Question 1
I have a 2003 BMW 760 Li with air conditioning that has my shop puzzled.  When the engine is idling or when I’m stopped the temperature of the air blowing from the system when set to full cold hovers around 60 degrees.  When I’m driving on the highway the temperature drops to near 50 degrees.  The trouble is that after I drive 15 minutes or more at cruising speed the temperature at the vents rises until it is the same temperature outside the car.

My repair shop has done extensive tests.  They found codes related to a fan at the front of the car and a sensor.  They replaced the sensor and the code for that is now gone.  They also drained the system and recharged it.  This did not cure the problem.  Further tests still show a problem with the fan but they say it is working fine and they don’t want to replace it unless they are sure that is causing the trouble.  At this point the car is not repaired.  They think the core in the dash is freezing but they can’t verify the trouble.
Do you have any suggestions?  W.L., email

Answer 1
Winter is on the way.  You need the air conditioning system to remove humidity from the cabin to defog the windows.

Generally, when an evaporator core freezes before the unit becomes a block of ice, ice pellets blow from the vents.  If you or your passengers have been smacked with ice pellets your shop needs to know.  This verifies the core is freezing.  If this is the problem your shop needs to find the cause.
If ice chips are not shooting from the vents the problem is caused by a fault in the fan or fan circuit.  It appears the circuit is functioning as designed so likely the fan has an affliction and needs replacement.

Battery Replacement Leads To Trouble
Question 2
The battery in my 2001 Mitsubishi Montero died.  It has a 3.0 engine.  I installed a new battery and now the engine stalls upon starting.  I can keep it from stalling as long as I press on the gas pedal.  I can drive without any problems and it does not stall when I come to a stop.  The check engine light is not on as I drive or after I start the engine.  It only stalls when I start.

I went to an auto supply store where tests found no codes.  They have no explanation for the trouble and suggest I take the vehicle to a shop.  Do you know what’s wrong?  T.M.S., email

Answer 2
Sometimes when a battery fails computer modules lose their memory.  This might be what has occurred in your vehicle.

Drive ten miles in normal traffic at highway and residential speeds and return home.  Once home don’t shut off the engine.  Park and allow the engine to idle for 20 or 30 minutes before you shut it off.  If the modules are operating normally all of your efforts will cause the modules to relearn functions and communications.  This might cure the condition.  If not it’s time to head to your favorite repair shop for diagnosis.

Aftermarket Radio Might Be The Cause Of Transmission Trouble
Question 3
I have a 2004 Volkswagen Beetle that every once in a while the transmission does not shift properly.  I went to a transmission shop to have the problem checked out.  They did some scan tests and test drove the car.  During the drive the transmission shifted normally.  The problem they found was that their test equipment did not communicate with the engine control module or any other control module in the vehicle.  They suspect there is a broken wire somewhere between the plug where they connect the tester and the car’s computers.  Since they specialize in transmission rebuilding and repair they suggested that I go another shop. 

A second shop tested the computers but once again their test equipment did not communicate with any computer in the car.  They searched for broken wires at several locations and removed the speedometer to check a module and circuit in there.  They did not find any broken or loose wires or loose plugs.  They think the module in the speedometer is bad but they are not sure and don’t want to replace it unless they are absolutely sure.  They also test drove the car and the transmission worked fine for them.  They suggested that I drive the car until the trouble becomes worse.  They also advised that the car won’t pass an emissions test until all the computers are communicating with test equipment so I should have the trouble repaired before the required emissions test.
I love my car.  It only has 70,000 miles on it.  It’s in great condition.  I take great care of it and even updated the radio so that I can use my cell phone through it.  It’s never given me any trouble until now.  The transmission acts up once or twice a week.  It’s as though it does not know when to shift.  When the problem appears no warning lights turn on.  It may happen one time and afterwards everything returns to normal.  Do you have any suggestions?  Do you know what’s wrong?  C.H., email

Answer 3
The good news is it is likely there is nothing wrong in the transmission.  Two shops have driven the car and agree the transmission is not in trouble.  The bad news is both shops have attempted to communicate with control modules and have been unsuccessful.  The second shop did a lot of work tracing circuits without finding a direct cause for the condition.  They only have suspicions.

The really bad news is that suspicion points to the recently installed aftermarket radio.  Ask your favorite shop to fully disconnect the radio including the wiring harness that modifies the factory original wiring.  Doing this might restore communication between all the control modules and resolve all issues.  If so, the transmission should return to normal operation.  After this your next step is to return to the facility that installed the radio for a resolution.

Emissions Warranty Might Cover Repair Cost
Question 4
I have a 2009 Chevrolet HHR with a 2.4-liter engine and 32,000 miles.  The check engine light is on.  I went to an auto supply store for a test.  The employee found code PO449.  He said it indicates a problem in the evap system solenoid.  He said he could get me a vent valve but he also said there might be other troubles causing the light to turn on.

I bought the car last year.  I really like it.  Do you think replacing the valve will cure the trouble?  S.B., email

Answer 4
It’s possible replacing the valve will cure the trouble but your parts store employee is correct.  There may be other problems in the system causing the issue.  It might be caused by corroded terminals in a plug or faulty ground connection. 

Your car has very low mileage and a problem such as this could be repaired under a warranty.  Consider discussing the issue with a service department manager at your local dealership.  If the repair is covered by an emissions warranty or another warranty you won’t shell out a dime for the repair and your car will have factory original repair parts.

Replacement Engine Module Due For Programming
Question 5
The other morning my 2002 Ford Ranger cranked but did not start.  A friend who knows a lot about Fords took a look at it.  He had a scan tester and found that the engine module was bad.  He suggested getting a used one with the same part numbers as the one in my truck.  I searched EBay, Craig’s List and a junk yard and found one.  He installed the part but the antitheft system prevented the engine from starting.  The theft light was blinking.  Now he says the module needs reprogramming but he does not have the tool to do the work.  He thought that if he installed a part with the same number the engine would start. 

Do you think the replacement module is bad or does it need programming?  K.B., email

Answer 5
Your friend apparently has a tool to determine if a module has a fault so perhaps he should test the part.  If it has a fault it’s time to return it for another if possible.  If the module passes tests it likely needs programming.  If his tool can’t complete the task consider towing the vehicle to a shop that has the equipment to program the module. 

Also, more than likely a shop will request that you have two keys.  The programming likely needs two keys to accomplish the task.

New Relay Fixes A/C But Clicks
Question 6
The air conditioner in my 2005 Volkswagen Passat quit working.  I took it to a local repair shop where they found a relay was bad.  They replaced the relay and the air conditioner is working.  The trouble is that when the air is on I hear a constant clicking sound.  I returned to the shop.  They told me that the new part is clicking.  They replaced it again and the clicking continues.  They don’t know what is causing it to click and said it might stop once I drive more.

The clicking is annoying.  Does this seem right to you?  D.H.A., email

Answer 6
No.  The relay should not constantly click.  More than likely there is an issue in the circuit such as a loose or corroded terminal.  Maybe there is another relay in the system that sends power to the recently installed relay that has a fault.  Issues such as these are causing the annoying clicking. 

Ask the shop owner or manager to consider these suggestions when you return to the shop.

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  09/23/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present