Dr. Gizmo Column

 "Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt

Troubled Brake Job

Question 1

I decided to replace the brake pads and front calipers on my 2010 Ford Focus.  After I did the work the brake pedal went to the floor and would not pump up so I could not bleed air from the system.  The brake master is full but no matter how many times I pump the pedal it does not push fluid out of the calipers.  I checked the rear brake cylinders and no fluid comes out of them. 

I removed the brake lines from the master cylinder and plugged the ports.  When I step on the pedal it is high and firm but when I reinstall the lines the pedal is soft and travels to the floor and no fluid comes out of the front or rear bled screws.  What’s up?  T.G.A., email

Answer 1

This indeed is a revolting development.  It appears air is trapped more likely than not in the antilock brake system module that consists of a computer module, valve system and pump.  Pumping the brake pedal apparently does not create the pressure needed to purge air from the system.  Consider using pressure bleeding or vacuum equipment to remove air from the system.  Some auto supply stores have rental equipment that can do the job.  Contact the store where you purchased the replacement parts and they may have the equipment you need.  If this suggestion does not do the trick, it’s time to tow the vehicle to a repair shop where the antilock module can be cycled and bled of air.

Adjustment May Do The Trick

Question 2

Recently, my 2001 Honda CR-V EX with a 2.0-liter engine developed a stalling problem after it’s been parked for several hours.  Once the engine warms up it runs fine. 

I took the vehicle to a repair shop and left it overnight.  In the morning a technician started the engine and it never stalled for him.  He drove 25 miles without any problems.  Also, he replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, rotor, idle motor and made sure everything is within specifications including the fuel pressure.  The next morning when I started the engine it stalled at almost every stop until it warmed up.  Now the technician suggests leaving it for a couple of days but I need it.

My car has 108,000 miles on it.  I follow the factory maintenance schedule for all repairs.  The check engine light has never turned on.  What do you think is wrong?  D.D., email

Answer 2

Your technician has done a lot of work.  Apparently conditions at the repair shop are not right to cause the symptoms.  If the vehicle was parked indoors, the temperature might have had an effect on the operating conditions that bring on the symptoms.  Ask your technician to park the vehicle outdoors.  Perhaps the engine will stall with cold ambient temperatures.

Also, since you follow the factory maintenance schedule, review it.  If the valves have never been adjusted the schedule suggests adjustment at 110,000 miles.  Since valves that are out of adjustment can cause an engine to stall, consider asking your technician to do the work especially if he feels the valves are noisy.  This is a clue they need adjustment.  Doing this maintenance reduces wear in the valve system and just might cure the stalling condition.

Looking Into Vehicle’s History

Question 3

Dr. Giz.  I hope you or someone you know may be able to help me.  I have tried numerous people and outlets with no success.  I'm trying to find how many vehicles were produced similar to the one I own.  It’s a 1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer.  Can you help?  G.R., email

Answer 3

The Chevrolet K5 Blazer had a long run and was in production from 1969 until 1994.  Sales of the K5 began to dwindle in the early 1990s.  Beginning in 1995 General Motors changed the styling and renamed it Chevrolet Tahoe. 

The good folks at Chevrolet media relations did not have the production numbers for the K5.  They suggested looking up the numbers in the 1994 Ward’s Automotive Yearbook.  Their suggestion jogged my memory.  This publication has just about every fact you need.  Your library might it.  If your local library does not have it, check an internet auction or it might be on the shelf of another library. 

Preventive Maintenance Long Overdue

Question 4

I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 131,000 miles.  Currently it’s running fine but has never had a tune-up.  All fluid maintenance was done in a timely manner.  Would changing spark plugs be difficult?  Also, I have never seen advice on changing the timing chain or belt.  Is there any recommended service for these parts?  R.H., Fox River Grove, IL

Answer 4

Since I don’t have all the necessary information such as whether your vehicle is a base model, four-wheel drive or engine size I cannot be specific.  According to an industry standard repair guide under the severe service maintenance schedule that qualifies this geography, the timing belt is replaced at 60,000 mile intervals and the spark plugs every 30,000 miles.  At 131,000 miles if these parts have not been replaced since new they are long overdue for replacement.

As for replacing the spark plugs, if your vehicle is equipped with a 4-cylinder engine the job is rather simple.  If your Santa Fe has a 6-cylinder engine, the work is more complicated requiring some disassembly of the variable valve system and related electronics hidden under the trim that makes the engine aesthetically pleasing to view.

Cause Of Intermittent Trouble Hides From Four Different Repair Shops

Question 5

I have a 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ that no one has been able to repair.  I’ve had it to four different repair shops including a dealership.  The trouble is that once in a while after I have driven 20 to 30 minutes the radio fails and the engine shuts off.  This lasts for a second or two then everything returns to normal as if nothing happened.  Also, my Tahoe has this feature that after I shut off the ignition the radio and power windows operate for five minutes or so or until I open the door.  Since this problem has arisen at times this delay feature is not available.  When I shut off the ignition the radio and power windows quit.  There is no delay in these devices shutting off.

All of the repair shops have driven the vehicle without any of these problems surfacing.  They have done many tests, checked wiring under and in the dash, and under the hood but they have not found the cause of the trouble.  Have you run into anything like this?  M.B., email

Answer 5

Sure, that’s why I don’t have a thick mop of hair on my dome.  More than likely technicians have tested the engine control module, body control module, checked the wiring and terminals to the modules and examined ground connections in the cabin and under the hood.  Obviously there is a glitch that has not surfaced.  Perhaps your favorite technician will consider tapping on the body control module.  It may reveal a fault inside the box.  A check of the battery terminals may find corrosion is an issue.  The terminals on your vehicle are designed to resist corrosion so that may be a place to check for something unusual.  Also, tapping on the ignition switch may cause the symptoms to surface.  When computer tests, visual exams and test drives don’t reveal a problem sometimes doing something a little unconventional will find a fault.

Engine Fails to Start After Do-It-Yourself Repair

Question 6

Well, I have a 2001 Pontiac Bonneville that is a project car.  I bought it for $200.  The body is in great condition despite 188,000 miles on the odometer.  Under the hood is a 3.8-liter engine that ran well until I started tinkering with it.  I found oil leaking from the lower intake.  I replaced the gaskets and seals.  After I completed the work over two weekends the engine will not start.   The engine does not crank at all.   When I turn the ignition key the dash lights up, the radio, heater, power windows and door locks work but the engine does not crank.

A buddy with a scan tool checked the computer and found a code 1819 for the transmission range.  Now I’m stuck.  How does replacing the intake gasket have anything to do with the transmission?  S.J.N., email

Answer 6

There is nothing like repairing a vehicle in your spare time.  Unfortunately when tools including repair manuals are limited problems become more difficult to overcome.  Be this as it may, you will prevail.

Malfunction code P1819 indicates that the transmission range selector has an issue.  There may be a loose ground connection.  Check all the ground connections in the engine compartment for corrosion and security.

Perhaps the cable to the shifter is out of adjustment or loose.  Check the cable at the transmission, it may be loose.   Maybe there is a pinched wire.  Check all the wiring around the top of the engine.  Just maybe one wire is stuck under the intake manifold or a bolt.  Once you find the cause of the issue and correct it, the engine will spring to life.

Thanks for all of your great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com  02/18/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989-Present