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Friday, September 6, 2013

Dr. Gizmo Column

By Phil Arendt


Curious About Rustproofing    
Question 1
I own a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that I've had since new.  It has developed extensive rust in the rocker panels and along the lower edges of the doors.  Around the time I bought it, there was an automotive journalist that wrote a weekly column in a major Chicago area newspaper.  He wrote several times in his columns that buying aftermarket rustproofing for new cars was a waste of money; new cars didn't need it.  Well, in my case, that was not true.  

At some point soon, I will have to replace my van.  What are your recommendations regarding aftermarket rustproofing for today's new cars?  D.P., Spring Grove, ILL

Answer 1
Rustproofing does not prevent all rust.  It all depends upon the construction of the part.

Let’s consider your vehicle.  The rust around the lower edges of the doors more than likely formed at a crimp or pinch seam where the outer panel connects to the inner panel.  This is also an issue for the rocker panels beneath the doors.   Rustproofing will not prevent moisture from seeping into these areas unless the vehicle is sealed on the inside and outside.   I’ve seen a few cars in my many years in this business that did have undercoating applied to inner and outer panels but in my opinion the vehicles did not have the appeal that most people look for in a vehicle.
Comparing vehicles of today to vehicles manufactured in 2000 more anti-corrosive materials are in today’s vehicles that will resist rust but the weaknesses of the pinch and crimp seams still exist although manufactures apply sealants in these areas to help prevent moisture and the formation of corrosion.

All vehicles suffer from corrosion somewhere whether it’s in the suspension, sub-frame assembly, fasteners and body.  Rustproofing will not prevent it.  Surface chips to the body expose metals to moisture and chemicals that form rust.  Once it starts it’s nearly impossible to stop and let’s face it the average motorist does not get down under a vehicle to check for chips in the rocker panels to repair problem areas.         
Manufactures have made great strides in the use of sealers, adhesives, entire body anti-corrosive coatings and metals used in the construction of vehicles to help prevent the formation of corrosion.  Despite this a vehicle is not rust proof. 

In the future when you purchase a new vehicle, applying rustproofing can void the manufacture corrosion warranty.  Check the manufacture warranty policy before modifying the original design of any vehicle as a modification such as rustproofing might cause corrosion.

Shop Fails To Find Cause Of Trouble  
Question 2
I own a 2004 Cadillac SRX that developed a misfire.  My repair shop has replaced the spark plugs, tested the cylinder compression, swapped ignition coils and fuel injectors, checked for vacuum leaks and more but the misfire continues.  The misfire is affecting the cylinders in one side of the engine.

My car has 133,000 miles.  The check engine light turns on.  Sometimes it flashes and sometimes it shines steadily.  Tests are inconclusive.  What do suggest I do next?  B.T.P., email

 
Answer 2
Roll the car into the first McHenry County gravel pit you can find.  There are plenty of them around. 

All kidding aside, return to your shop.  Better yet, it’s time to have another shop take a crack at diagnosing the trouble.   It appears the present shop has exhausted their expertise and resources.  A fresh look at the problem at another shop might just find the cause.
If you should decide to return to the present shop ask the manager to consider thorough testing of the oxygen sensors on the afflicted side of the engine.  It’s possible a sensor is not responding as designed.  This might result in information to the engine control module that is causing an excessively lean or rich fuel mixture.  This type of condition can cause cylinders to misfire.  If so, replacing an afflicted sensor might be a lasting cure.

Timing Chain Causes Rattle Sound 
Question 3
There is a rattling sound coming from the front of the 6-cylinder engine in my 2008 Kia Sorento.  It has 77,000 miles.  I bought it two years ago when it had 51,000 miles.  Since I bought it I have taken great care of it with oil changes every 3,000 miles.

I went to a repair shop where they at first thought the noise was coming from the drive belt.  They replaced it but the noise remained.  Now they think the timing chain is making the noise but they say that they have never seen a Kia Sorento need a chain before so they think there might be other causes for the noise.    
Is it common for a timing chain to need replacement at this mileage?  B.L., email

Answer 3
It’s unusual for a timing chain to need replacement at the present mileage.  Typically this needs replacement maybe never during ownership but it’s something to think about replacing beyond 100,000 miles.  Be this as it may it is possible it needs replacement now.  It’s also possible the tensioner assemblies that keep the chain tight are worn causing the chain to rattle.  Another cause might be low oil pressure or restricted oil flow to the tensioner assemblies. 

A technician won’t know for sure what causes the trouble until he uncovers the chain assembly for examination.

Repeated Failure of Fuel Pumps
Question 4
I have a 1987 Ford F-250 pickup with a 7.5-liter engine and 30,000 miles.  This is the last truck with a carbureted engine and it’s in like new condition.  The trouble is that the fuel pumps burned out.  I replaced both of them and the fuel switching valve.  I sent both fuel tanks to a shop to have them cleaned.  I ended up replacing one tank.  After the work, 150 miles later the pumps burned out again.  This time I installed new pumps from a dealership but they burned out 99 miles later. 

I’m about to pull my hair out over this problem.  What should I do next?  B.L., email

Answer 4
Buy a wig and sell the truck.  I’m just kidding.  With only 30,000 miles the truck isn’t broken in. 

It’s time to check for current draw.  It may be too high due to poor ground connections.  It’s also possible there is a restriction causing too much back pressure.  Check the lines for restrictions, fuel pressure regulator and fuel return valve on the carburetor.  Repair all depends upon your findings.

Vacation Extended Due To Car Trouble
Question 5
The engine stalled while driving my 1999 Nissan Maxima on the highway while on vacation.   I’m still on vacation now without my car.  I attempted to start it several times and the battery went dead.  I did not realize I had run out of gas.

I had the car towed to a repair shop where they charged the battery and poured five gallons of gas in the tank.  After this the engine cranked but would not start.  They said the security system kicked in and won’t allow the engine to start.  They said they need to tow the car to a dealership to have this problem repaired.
Does this seem right to you?  P.P., email

Answer 5
Wow, trouble occurs in threes.  Indeed it is possible the security system prevents starting.

Since the repair shop suggests towing the vehicle to a dealership it’s obvious they are not equipped to repair the trouble.  It’s time to tow it.  It’s possible the key needs reprogramming.  If so, the security system will decipher the code after programming and the engine will start.

Huge Temperature Swing In Air Conditioner
Question 6
The air conditioner in my 1995 Nissan Maxima is not cooling normally.  My repair shop has replaced the compressor, expander valve and receiver valve.  Despite this it isn’t cooling properly.

When I’m stopped at a light or driving in heavy traffic with the controls set to the coldest setting the air temperature at the vents is around 70 degrees.  When driving the temperature often drops down to around 40 degrees at the vents. 

My shop says everything is working correctly.  They don’t know why the air conditioner acts this way.  Do you know what’s up?  R.C., email

Answer 6
The fact that the temperature goes up at a stop or in heavy traffic is not unusual but the dramatic swing in temperature is not normal.  Although your shop assured you that everything is operating normally there appears to be an issue with air flow through the engine cooling radiator and air conditioning condenser.  There might be debris blocking air flow.  The shrouds that funnel air through these parts might be broken or missing.  The cooling fans may not be functioning as designed. 

The next time you visit your shop ask them to consider these suggestions.  Perhaps they may find something unusual such as a mouse nest is blocking air flow.

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  08/26/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present

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