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Friday, November 8, 2013

Dr. Gizmo Column


 "Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt

Interior Lights Shine When They Shouldn’t
Question 1
I own a 2001 Chrysler 300M.  The problem is intermittently the interior lights turn on while driving or when it is parked.  I had my dealer look into the trouble but they did not fix the problem. 

The battery took a beating from being discharged so I had it replaced.  I also checked for recalls without success.  Can you help?  M.K., McHenry, IL

Answer 1
It’s time to buy a new car.  All kidding aside the trouble likely is caused by a faulty door switch but it’s possible a control module is at fault.  If the car has been in a collision a technician needs to know about the repairs.  This clue will help find the trouble as even a poor adjustment in door alignment or door latch can cause this condition. 

Additionally, it’s possible a door latch needs tender loving care.  Lubricating the locks and latch assemblies could cure the trouble.

Right Turns Cause Clicking Noise
Question 2
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile 88 with 90,000 miles.  When making right turns I hear a clicking sound in the right front area.  The wheel bearing and axle on the right wheel have been replaced.  Also, the wheels have been aligned.  Is it possible the strut is causing the noise?  G.P., Algonquin, IL

 
Answer 2
Make only left turns and the trouble is resolved.  I’m sorry I could not restrain myself.  The noise in your car could be caused by a failing upper strut bearing.  It is not likely the strut itself is making noise.  It’s also possible the right constant velocity joint on the right axle is excessively worn and clicking.  The joint and axle are separate parts.

When you have a minute, with the vehicle stationary turn the wheels left and right.  If the upper strut bearing is causing the noise you might hear the sound.  If the noise only occurs when the car is moving more than likely a rotating part such as a constant velocity joint is the source of the sound.

Air Bags No Longer Work
Question 3
The air bag light in my 2005 Buick LeSabre turns on and stays on.  Can you tell me what is wrong?  P., email

 
Answer 3
There are many causes for the air bag light to illuminate including failed sensors, modules or even failed circuits.  The fact that the warning light stays on is a blessing.  This indicates that the trouble is constant.  A technician will have a much better chance of determining the cause of the issue than if the light was turning on once in a while.

Consider taking the vehicle to your favorite repair shop.  Tests will find the cause.  A common problem that causes this issue is a broken clock spring under the steering wheel.  If so, repair will be a snap.

In the meantime be aware the air bags will not deploy in a collision so have the system repaired as quickly as possible.


Warning Light Illuminates After Wiring Repair 
Question 4
I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe with 154,000 miles.  Except for the poor gas mileage, I really love the vehicle.   My question refers to the yellow security light on the instrument panel.  It stays on all the time the truck is running.  I've checked the fuses and don't find any blown.

I bought the truck new and this problem began after I had a wire repaired in the steering column.  Do you have any idea why this would stay on and how I can correct the problem, short of putting a piece of black tape over the light?  E.F.K., email

Answer 4
Duct tape comes in so many colors, patterns and styles you might find it useful to cover the light and it’s much more attractive than black electrical tape.  All kidding aside, it’s possible the wiring to the antitheft system in the steering column was damaged during repairs.  It’s also possible the antitheft system needs reprogramming.  Additionally, there may be a problem in the ignition key.

Consider revisiting the repair shop that repaired the column wiring to address the issue.  Tests should find the cause.  If this condition is caused by a misstep, you should not have to pay for repairs.

Time to Troubleshoot Circuit
Question 5
I have a 2005 GMC Safari with a 4.3-liter engine and 160,000 miles.  I’m having trouble with engine starts.  A friend who has a lot of knowledge about GMCs replaced the fuel pump.  After this the trouble continued so he did more testing and found a communication problem with the engine module.  He installed a new module and programmed it but the trouble is not fixed.  Now during tests one time his meter reads 12 volts at a wire and at other times the same wire reads 1.2 volts.  He says this is causing the problems.  He thinks the new control module might be the cause but he is not sure and the place where I bought the module won’t take it back unless my friend is sure it is defective.

Do you think the module is bad or is something else causing the trouble?  R.R., email

Answer 5
Today, most vehicle problems are caused by an electrical issue.  And certainly it is possible the recently installed powertrain control module might be defective.  Since your auto supply store will not take it back until it is proven defective, your buddy should consider troubleshooting the wire with variable voltage readings.  It might have a small break or it might be damaged due to chaffing against another part.  Perhaps there is a plug in the circuit where a pin terminal is corroded but your description of the trouble lends to a loose terminal.  He should check for looseness and corrosion. 

If a process of elimination proves there is nothing wrong in the circuit he can say with a reasonable degree of certainty that the PCM is defective when he returns to the auto supply store.

Tires Create Heat That Boils Oil 
Question 6
I have a Ford Explorer with a 4.6-liter engine and a differential in the front for four-wheel-drive that gets so hot it can’t be touched.  Also, once it gets hot oil comes out all over the bottom of the vehicle.

I took it to a repair shop where a mechanic filled the differential with oil.  We went for a drive and by the time we returned to the shop oil was dripping and it was so hot the oil was smoking on the differential.  We only drove about six miles.  My mechanic could not find any leaks.  The four-wheel-drive worked fine but after looking at the vehicle for a while he came to the waiting room to say that I had the wrong size tires.  He said that the tires in front are not the same size as the rear and none of them are of the proper size for the vehicle.  I purchased the custom set of tires online.  I had them installed but the shop that did the work never mentioned that they would cause a problem.
Does this seem right to you?  K.J., email

 
Answer 6
Tire size is a critical aspect in the ride and control of a vehicle and even more critical with four-wheel-drive.  It can also adversely affect the performance of the antilock brake, stability control, traction control and all-wheel-drive systems.  Not only can these systems be impaired but engine and transmission operation can be affected due to wheel speed sensor and other computer sensor inputs such as transmission and engine speed to manage fuel deliver, transmission shift points and more while driving.

More than likely your vehicle is suffering from differences in rotational speed caused by tires of different sizes.  This causes great stress on the differentials in the front and rear and the transfer gear box that connects the transmission and engine to the front and rear differentials.  This can cause huge torque differences and heat.  Obviously the heat built up in your front differential is high enough to cause oil to vaporize into smoke.  And that’s on the outside of the unit.  The temperature of the gears inside must be higher resulting in heat high enough to boil oil right off the rotating parts.  Continued operation with these tires and conditions will soon cause the differential and maybe more to fail. 
I suspect your technician suggests that you consider installing tires of the size originally intended for the vehicle suggested by the carmaker.  Take his advice.                

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  09/30/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present

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