"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt
Cost Of Future Hybrid
Battery Replacement Fuzzy
Question 1
I
try to read your column every week, but may have missed a few. I purchased a 2013 Chevrolet Volt after
researching numerous articles and reviews. One article, if true, stated that over 90
percent of the current owners would buy another Volt.
I
usually keep cars more than 10 years. I
am retired and plan to drive my Volt in the local area using little or no gas. I have used it on a long trip with fuel
economy better than a 45 MPG average. Also,
it seemed to be as comfortable on this trip as my "highway car." I believe that if I am satisfied with the
approximate 30 percent drop in the battery capacity performance at the eight year
mark I will continue to drive it. If
however I am not satisfied with this level of capacity I believe the battery
replacement cost could be lower than the critics are claiming today.
Yes,
after the fact what are your thoughts? Have
you reported anything on the Chevy Volt? Do you have any comments related to this car
or its technology? R., email
Answer
1
I
have answered questions about the Chevrolet Volt. Basically Chevrolet took ideas used in diesel
electric train engines and modified the principals for cars. General Motor makes train engines. The diesel engine in a train powers an
alternator to produce electricity that powers the electric motors that move a
train. Your car has a small gasoline
engine that turns an alternator that produces electrical power to charge a
battery pack to power the motor that turns the car’s drive wheels.
In
a train the huge diesel engine runs continuously. In your car the gasoline engine only runs
when the battery pack needs a charge and it has stop technology so the engine
stops when the vehicle stops for a light or sign. When making short trips the engine may not
run at all and the car’s electric motor runs on battery power. During longer trips of as many as 40 miles
the electricity stored in the battery depletes and the gasoline engine turns on
to recharge. Of course when the vehicle
is not in use you can plug the car into an electrical outlet to charge the
battery.
As
the car ages the battery pack loses its capacity to store as much electrical
power as it did when it was new. As a
result as you stated it loses about 30 percent of its capacity by the time it
is eight years old. Therefore the car
does not travel as far as it did when new on the battery power. Instead of traveling for example 40 miles
strictly on battery power depending on road conditions it may only travel 10 to
30 miles on electricity before the gasoline engine kicks in to charge the
battery. If this reduction is not
acceptable the battery can be replaced with a remanufactured unit which might
cost around $3,000 to replace. I say
might cost $3,000 because no one really knows what the price of a battery will
be eight years down the road. The price
might drop. It might skyrocket or there is
new developing technology that might replace the present battery such as lithium-air,
aluminum-air and others that are predicted to cost from $1,500 to $9,000. Some batteries under development might power
a car 1,000 miles on a single charge. That
would be awesome. We will have to wait a
few years to see how research and development shakes out but presently a
remanufactured battery pack installation is much less than $9,000.
OiI
Pressure Drops After Synthetic Oil Change
Question
2
I have a great running 2004 Chevy Silverado
with a 5.3-liter V- 8 engine and 103,000 miles. 1,500 miles after an oil change using regular oil
the pressure drops to 25 lbs. when the engine is idling.
The last time I changed the oil I used a high mileage
synthetic blend. After two to three days
of travel the oil pressure dropped to 25 lbs. Is this normal? J.H., St. Paul, Minn.
Answer 2
The differences between synthetic lubricant
and good old mineral oil are great. What
you experienced is nothing unusual or to be concerned about. The issue that all of us should be concerned
about is oil pressure and oil level. In
all vehicles except 100 percent electric it’s important to maintain at all
times a proper oil level between the add and full dipstick marks. Equally important is oil pressure. It must be monitored.
Since specifications for oil pressure varies
from one make vehicle to another it’s important to heed an illuminated oil
warning light on the instrument cluster.
If it turns on, the engine should immediately be shut off. The light warns of low oil pressure. This might be caused by an extremely low oil
level or a mechanical issue in the engine such as a failed oil pump. An illuminated warning light also might be
caused by an electrical issue such as a failed sensor but ignoring the light
might mean doom for the engine in short order.
If the light turns on, don’t speculate why it turned on. Shut off the engine and call a tow
truck. An engine suffering from a lack
of lubrication grinds itself to bits is seconds.
In vehicles equipped with a gauge it’s easy to
not pay attention to the instrument panel.
Monitor the oil pressure gauge.
When the pressure drops below what you normally see on the gauge it’s
time to shut off the engine and have the issue addressed. Certainly the oil level might be excessively
low but the trouble might be caused by mechanical or electrical issues. Since some vehicles are equipped with a low
oil level warning light, heed it’s warning too.
In your vehicle 25 pounds per square inch at
an idle is nothing to worry about. This
seems to be the normal pressure you are accustom to reading on the gauge. If pressure drops below 25 to say around 15 p.s.i.,
it’s time to be concerned. The oil level
may be low but if this is the cause in my experience the engine is nearly empty. Adding oil hopefully will resolve the
issue. Also, there might be mechanical
issues such as excessive engine wear might be the cause. It’s also possible an electrical issue such
as a failed oil pressure sensor might be the source of trouble but you won’t
know the reason until a technician determines the cause. To prevent severe engine damage, shut it off.
Steering Turns Left On Its Own
Question
3
The
power steering in my 2009 Ford Fusion has a problem. First, the belt jumped off the pulley on the
pump but not completely off. About half
of the belt was still on the pulley and the other half was shredded hanging off
the pulley, tangled around other parts.
The steering became stiff as well.
A shop removed the mess and installed a new belt.
Now
the power steering is better, but not as light as before. Now when I turn there is resistance in the
opposite direction especially right turns.
It’s as though I’m fighting a force in the other direction. If I’m standing still with the wheels
straight ahead and I speed up the engine the steering wheel slowly turns left
all by itself. Is this caused by
something in the power steering pump or something else? R.M., email
Answer
3
Perhaps
a ghost is sitting in your lap turning the steering wheel. All kidding aside it’s possible there is an
issue in the pump but it is more likely the steering rack has an internal fault
such as a broken or leaky seal. To
repair the issue the rack might need replacement.
When
you take the car to a shop ask them to consider this as a possible cause. Hydraulic pressure tests of the pump and
steering rack and a visual exam of the fluid should find the cause of the
issue.
Engine
Stalling Problem Eludes Diagnosis
Question
4
My
1995 Ford Ranger with a 3.0-liter engine is in great condition and only has
63,000 miles. I take good care of it with
oil changes every 3,000 miles. I’ve
owned it since it was new.
The
problem is that every once in a while when coming to a stop the engine begins
to run rough and sometimes when this happens it stalls. When it stalls it starts up and runs normally
as if nothing happened.
Three
times I went to a repair shop for the issue.
My shop has replaced the spark plugs and checked the fuel pump. They also have done several tests on the
oxygen sensors, mass air flow and manifold pressure sensors. They also did an extensive road test but the
truck ran fine for them. They say
everything appears normal.
The
truck does run a little better with the new spark plugs but just this morning
the engine stalled again as I was coming to a stop. My shop says to bring the vehicle for more
tests. What could cause this
problem? L.B., email
Answer
4
Apparently
your mini pickup does not like coming to a stop. Be this as it may, ask your shop to consider
testing the exhaust gas recirculation valve.
When this valve sticks the fuel mixture goes excessively lean and causes
an engine to exhibit symptoms such as you describe. If this theory is verified, replacing the
valve just might be a lasting cure and your troubles will be over.
Instrument
Cluster Is A Computer
Question
5
I
have a 2010 Ford F-150 XL pickup truck with a 4.6-liter engine. It has 38,000 miles on it and the air
conditioner quit. I went to my local
shop that services our family fleet.
They did some tests and found that the compressor was not turning on. The shop owner says the trouble is in the
instrument cluster. He says it needs
replacement and a new cluster will need reprogramming. He said he needs two keys to program the
antitheft system as well.
What
does the instrument panel have to do with the air conditioner? Does this seem right to you? L.H., email
Answer
5
Your
truck has many computer modules. While
it might seem strange, the instrument cluster not only is a speedometer and
odometer it is a computer module that controls accessory functions such as the
air conditioning compressor. It also
communicates with the engine control module and antitheft system.
When
a new cluster is installed it needs programming to operate and it goes through
a learning process to communicate with the other modules in the vehicle. This includes the antitheft system. To complete the process in the antitheft
system your shop needs two keys or the truck won’t start.
Visual
Exam Of Fuses Often Falls Short
Question
6
The
tail lights, instrument lights, heater and radio control lights and parking
lights in my 2006 Pontiac Torrent do not work.
I checked the fuses but all of them look fine.
Is
there a main fuse or circuit breaker somewhere that might need resetting or replacement? P.P., email
Answer
6
The
light issue might be caused by a failed fuse, relay or perhaps a failed dimmer
switch in the dash. Before you take the
vehicle to a shop it is possible a visual examination of the fuses missed a
blown fuse. Sometimes the break in the element
that burns and separates in the device is not in view. A test of fuses with a test light, ohmmeter or
fuse tester might find an open fuse your eyes did not detect. It’s also possible not all of the fuses were examined.
Your
vehicle has two fuse panels. One is
under the hood and one is in the passenger compartment. The under hood panel contains maxi fuses to
protect high amperage circuits, mini fuses for low amperage circuits and
relays. The panel is large and has a
cover that is labeled for easy identification.
Certainly it’s important to check these fuses but the one in particular
that protects the circuit for the lights of your concern is in the interior.
The
fuse in question is in a panel that should be concealed in the passenger side
of the of the center console. You should
find a removable panel in the console towards the dash. Beneath it should be the fuse panel that is the
home for the fuse that protects the dash, heater control lights and more. Embossed in the panel cover is a legend that
will help identify the fuses. More than
likely you will find a 10 amp fuse has blown.
If so, cross your fingers and replace it. If it does not pop, all is well. If it blows, there is a short circuit and
it’s time to take the vehicle to your favorite repair shop to have the issue
diagnosed and repaired.
Thank you for all the great
questions. Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to
answer more.
Phil Arendt is a
columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at
P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com. 11/04/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present
