Dr. Gizmo Column

"Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt

Cost Of Future Hybrid Battery Replacement Fuzzy

Question 1
I try to read your column every week, but may have missed a few.  I purchased a 2013 Chevrolet Volt after researching numerous articles and reviews.  One article, if true, stated that over 90 percent of the current owners would buy another Volt.

I usually keep cars more than 10 years.  I am retired and plan to drive my Volt in the local area using little or no gas.  I have used it on a long trip with fuel economy better than a 45 MPG average.  Also, it seemed to be as comfortable on this trip as my "highway car."  I believe that if I am satisfied with the approximate 30 percent drop in the battery capacity performance at the eight year mark I will continue to drive it.  If however I am not satisfied with this level of capacity I believe the battery replacement cost could be lower than the critics are claiming today.

Yes, after the fact what are your thoughts?  Have you reported anything on the Chevy Volt?  Do you have any comments related to this car or its technology?  R., email

Answer 1

I have answered questions about the Chevrolet Volt.  Basically Chevrolet took ideas used in diesel electric train engines and modified the principals for cars.  General Motor makes train engines.  The diesel engine in a train powers an alternator to produce electricity that powers the electric motors that move a train.  Your car has a small gasoline engine that turns an alternator that produces electrical power to charge a battery pack to power the motor that turns the car’s drive wheels. 

In a train the huge diesel engine runs continuously.  In your car the gasoline engine only runs when the battery pack needs a charge and it has stop technology so the engine stops when the vehicle stops for a light or sign.  When making short trips the engine may not run at all and the car’s electric motor runs on battery power.  During longer trips of as many as 40 miles the electricity stored in the battery depletes and the gasoline engine turns on to recharge.  Of course when the vehicle is not in use you can plug the car into an electrical outlet to charge the battery. 

As the car ages the battery pack loses its capacity to store as much electrical power as it did when it was new.  As a result as you stated it loses about 30 percent of its capacity by the time it is eight years old.  Therefore the car does not travel as far as it did when new on the battery power.  Instead of traveling for example 40 miles strictly on battery power depending on road conditions it may only travel 10 to 30 miles on electricity before the gasoline engine kicks in to charge the battery.  If this reduction is not acceptable the battery can be replaced with a remanufactured unit which might cost around $3,000 to replace.  I say might cost $3,000 because no one really knows what the price of a battery will be eight years down the road.  The price might drop.  It might skyrocket or there is new developing technology that might replace the present battery such as lithium-air, aluminum-air and others that are predicted to cost from $1,500 to $9,000.  Some batteries under development might power a car 1,000 miles on a single charge.  That would be awesome.  We will have to wait a few years to see how research and development shakes out but presently a remanufactured battery pack installation is much less than $9,000.

 

OiI Pressure Drops After Synthetic Oil Change  

Question 2
I have a great running 2004 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3-liter V- 8 engine and 103,000 miles. 1,500 miles after an oil change using regular oil the pressure drops to 25 lbs. when the engine is idling.  

The last time I changed the oil I used a high mileage synthetic blend.  After two to three days of travel the oil pressure dropped to 25 lbs.  Is this normal?  J.H., St. Paul, Minn.

Answer 2

The differences between synthetic lubricant and good old mineral oil are great.  What you experienced is nothing unusual or to be concerned about.  The issue that all of us should be concerned about is oil pressure and oil level.  In all vehicles except 100 percent electric it’s important to maintain at all times a proper oil level between the add and full dipstick marks.  Equally important is oil pressure.  It must be monitored.

Since specifications for oil pressure varies from one make vehicle to another it’s important to heed an illuminated oil warning light on the instrument cluster.  If it turns on, the engine should immediately be shut off.  The light warns of low oil pressure.  This might be caused by an extremely low oil level or a mechanical issue in the engine such as a failed oil pump.  An illuminated warning light also might be caused by an electrical issue such as a failed sensor but ignoring the light might mean doom for the engine in short order.  If the light turns on, don’t speculate why it turned on.  Shut off the engine and call a tow truck.  An engine suffering from a lack of lubrication grinds itself to bits is seconds.

In vehicles equipped with a gauge it’s easy to not pay attention to the instrument panel.  Monitor the oil pressure gauge.  When the pressure drops below what you normally see on the gauge it’s time to shut off the engine and have the issue addressed.  Certainly the oil level might be excessively low but the trouble might be caused by mechanical or electrical issues.  Since some vehicles are equipped with a low oil level warning light, heed it’s warning too.

In your vehicle 25 pounds per square inch at an idle is nothing to worry about.  This seems to be the normal pressure you are accustom to reading on the gauge.  If pressure drops below 25 to say around 15 p.s.i., it’s time to be concerned.  The oil level may be low but if this is the cause in my experience the engine is nearly empty.  Adding oil hopefully will resolve the issue.  Also, there might be mechanical issues such as excessive engine wear might be the cause.  It’s also possible an electrical issue such as a failed oil pressure sensor might be the source of trouble but you won’t know the reason until a technician determines the cause.  To prevent severe engine damage, shut it off.

 

Steering Turns Left On Its Own
Question 3

The power steering in my 2009 Ford Fusion has a problem.  First, the belt jumped off the pulley on the pump but not completely off.  About half of the belt was still on the pulley and the other half was shredded hanging off the pulley, tangled around other parts.  The steering became stiff as well.  A shop removed the mess and installed a new belt.

Now the power steering is better, but not as light as before.  Now when I turn there is resistance in the opposite direction especially right turns.  It’s as though I’m fighting a force in the other direction.  If I’m standing still with the wheels straight ahead and I speed up the engine the steering wheel slowly turns left all by itself.  Is this caused by something in the power steering pump or something else? R.M., email

Answer 3

Perhaps a ghost is sitting in your lap turning the steering wheel.  All kidding aside it’s possible there is an issue in the pump but it is more likely the steering rack has an internal fault such as a broken or leaky seal.  To repair the issue the rack might need replacement.

When you take the car to a shop ask them to consider this as a possible cause.  Hydraulic pressure tests of the pump and steering rack and a visual exam of the fluid should find the cause of the issue.

Engine Stalling Problem Eludes Diagnosis

Question 4

My 1995 Ford Ranger with a 3.0-liter engine is in great condition and only has 63,000 miles.  I take good care of it with oil changes every 3,000 miles.  I’ve owned it since it was new.

The problem is that every once in a while when coming to a stop the engine begins to run rough and sometimes when this happens it stalls.  When it stalls it starts up and runs normally as if nothing happened. 

Three times I went to a repair shop for the issue.  My shop has replaced the spark plugs and checked the fuel pump.  They also have done several tests on the oxygen sensors, mass air flow and manifold pressure sensors.  They also did an extensive road test but the truck ran fine for them.  They say everything appears normal.

The truck does run a little better with the new spark plugs but just this morning the engine stalled again as I was coming to a stop.  My shop says to bring the vehicle for more tests.  What could cause this problem?  L.B., email

 

Answer 4

Apparently your mini pickup does not like coming to a stop.  Be this as it may, ask your shop to consider testing the exhaust gas recirculation valve.  When this valve sticks the fuel mixture goes excessively lean and causes an engine to exhibit symptoms such as you describe.  If this theory is verified, replacing the valve just might be a lasting cure and your troubles will be over.

 

Instrument Cluster Is A Computer

Question 5
I have a 2010 Ford F-150 XL pickup truck with a 4.6-liter engine.  It has 38,000 miles on it and the air conditioner quit.  I went to my local shop that services our family fleet.  They did some tests and found that the compressor was not turning on.  The shop owner says the trouble is in the instrument cluster.  He says it needs replacement and a new cluster will need reprogramming.  He said he needs two keys to program the antitheft system as well.

What does the instrument panel have to do with the air conditioner?  Does this seem right to you?  L.H., email

Answer 5

Your truck has many computer modules.  While it might seem strange, the instrument cluster not only is a speedometer and odometer it is a computer module that controls accessory functions such as the air conditioning compressor.  It also communicates with the engine control module and antitheft system.

When a new cluster is installed it needs programming to operate and it goes through a learning process to communicate with the other modules in the vehicle.  This includes the antitheft system.  To complete the process in the antitheft system your shop needs two keys or the truck won’t start.

Visual Exam Of Fuses Often Falls Short

Question 6

The tail lights, instrument lights, heater and radio control lights and parking lights in my 2006 Pontiac Torrent do not work.  I checked the fuses but all of them look fine. 

Is there a main fuse or circuit breaker somewhere that might need resetting or replacement?  P.P., email

Answer 6

The light issue might be caused by a failed fuse, relay or perhaps a failed dimmer switch in the dash.  Before you take the vehicle to a shop it is possible a visual examination of the fuses missed a blown fuse.  Sometimes the break in the element that burns and separates in the device is not in view.  A test of fuses with a test light, ohmmeter or fuse tester might find an open fuse your eyes did not detect.  It’s also possible not all of the fuses were examined. 

Your vehicle has two fuse panels.  One is under the hood and one is in the passenger compartment.  The under hood panel contains maxi fuses to protect high amperage circuits, mini fuses for low amperage circuits and relays.  The panel is large and has a cover that is labeled for easy identification.  Certainly it’s important to check these fuses but the one in particular that protects the circuit for the lights of your concern is in the interior.

The fuse in question is in a panel that should be concealed in the passenger side of the of the center console.  You should find a removable panel in the console towards the dash.  Beneath it should be the fuse panel that is the home for the fuse that protects the dash, heater control lights and more.  Embossed in the panel cover is a legend that will help identify the fuses.  More than likely you will find a 10 amp fuse has blown.  If so, cross your fingers and replace it.  If it does not pop, all is well.  If it blows, there is a short circuit and it’s time to take the vehicle to your favorite repair shop to have the issue diagnosed and repaired.   

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com.  11/04/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present