By Phil Arendt
Warning Light Turns Off Before Shop Can
Diagnose
Question 1I have a 1998 Audi A6 with 88,000 miles that is in beautiful condition. Recently, I have been getting an intermittent red ABS light. My independent shop checked when the light was off and found no problem. They checked the fluid level and inspected the brake pads and rotors and found everything is ok. My shop wants to check the ABS system when the light is on.
Whenever the light is on I
head for my shop. As luck would have it
the light is off by the time I get there. I ‘m concerned about using the car when the
light is on. What should I do next? G.F., email
Answer 1
When the light is on the ABS
system likely will not function.
Practice squeeze braking and rapid pumping techniques to control skids
until the issue is repaired. As for the
trouble it’s possible there is an air gap issue at one of the wheel sensors. Also, an electrical connection might be
corroded or loose. Since your car is
older, connections and corrosion is an area to heavily weigh and consider.
Additionally, since your
shop has eliminated problems in the brakes a technician might check for a worn
wheel bearing. Excessive wear can
increase the air gap at a wheel sensor and turn on the light.
Four-Year-Old Vehicle
Nothing But Trouble
Question 2I have a 2010 GMC Terrain with 50,000 miles. The timing chain just needed replacement. Now an anti-lock brake sensor and Stabilitrak sensor are out. It will cost $1,000 to repair! I’ve had numerous recalls fixed, including stuck steering. The engine oil is disappearing. I could go on and on.
I live in Minnesota and am scared to death to drive on snow covered roads. The dealership that works on it said this could be just the beginning of the troubles. Is this normal for a car this new? Is there any help from General Motors? Do you have any suggestions? G.N., email
Answer 2
Wow
your car has been trouble. It’s not
normal.
To
find out if General Motors can be of any help call customer service at (855)
238-0773. When you call, be prepared to
provide a detailed vehicle service history.
A representative will need information from repair invoices from all
servicing dealer and independent shops.
Also, be prepared to be referred back to your servicing dealership for
further assessment of your vehicle.
As
for driving in slippery conditions, it’s natural to be cautious and a little
frightened, but it’s important to stay calm and focused. Conscientious drivers grip the steering wheel
a little tighter and focus more on driving conditions. There are exceptions. The cars you see in a ditch are the result of
drivers who failed to recognize driving conditions.
Stay
focused, slow down and keep a good distance away from vehicles in front of
you. If you do, you should be able to
control the vehicle even with impaired systems.
After all years ago when cars did not have all the safety features they
now have, motorists navigated slick roads safely. Just because vehicles have systems to help
control a vehicle doesn’t mean it won’t slide, skid, fishtail and spin-out on
gravel, ice, snow, mud, leaves, rain and oil.
If a vehicle operator exceeds the abilities of a vehicle they could
easily lose control and in the blink of an eye collide with a bang or slip into
a ditch.
Once
repairs are complete, continue to use common sense during winter driving
conditions for a system such as Stability control is not effective if a vehicle
operator exceeds limitations.
Control Module Fails After
Battery Replacement
Question 3I have a 2006 Land Rover LR3. The battery died so in all my infinite wisdom I jump started it and went to a parts store to buy a new battery. My car ran fine to and from the parts store. I did not shut it off until I was home and in my garage.
I replaced the battery
without a hitch. Unfortunately when I
tried to start the engine it started but the transmission did not engage. I checked all of the fuses and all of them
are fine. There is a message on the dash
that says the transmission range is not available. There are two other messages for special
programs and fault programs that are not working.
I don’t want to have the
vehicle towed to a dealer unless I have no other choice. Did replacing the battery wipe out the engine
computer? Does it need programming? Did I somehow short out the computer? What do you think is wrong? R.G., email
Answer 3
If you followed safety
practices and did not accidentally short a circuit or reverse polarity,
computers should be fine. Having said
this, it appears a control module is causing trouble. I don’t know which one so it’s time to have
the vehicle transported to a shop. Tests
will determine which module is causing trouble, but from what you describe it’s
possible a transmission module has failed.
Newly Installed Parts Fail
To Repair Condition
Question 4I have a problem with my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 motor that’s been going on for some time. When accelerating before the engine warms up it loses power and the check engine light turns on. Once the motor warms up it runs normally. I replaced the crank sensor because my parts house found 336 in the engine computer. This did not fix the trouble.
I also replaced the spark
plugs, air filter, fuel filter, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. I also cleaned the m.a.f. sensor. None of this cured the trouble. The check engine light turned back on and
tests still find code 336.
I’ve owned the truck since
it was new. It’s my baby and in great
condition. It has 196,000 miles on it
and none of the parts I installed had ever been replaced in the past except for
the spark plugs and filters. What do you
think is wrong? L.T., email Answer 4
When a vehicle crosses the 150,000 mile mark it’s a good idea to replace parts such as the fuel pump and water pump as a preventive measure. These are parts that will fail. You just don’t know when. And when they do fail you could be stranded in the middle of nowhere. Replacing the fuel pump and the pressure regulator at least was a good preventive measure.
Since the condition occurs
when the engine is cold, temperature raises suspicions that a sensor such as
the engine coolant temperature sensor acts up.
There also is an air temperature sensor within the mass air flow sensor
you just cleaned. I hope you did not
scrub the interior of m.a.f. as doing so can damage it.
Since code PO336 has
returned, check the crankshaft sensor circuit for chaffed wiring and poor
connections. It’s also possible the new
sensor is defective.
Another issue might be
excessive crankshaft play. Let’s hope
excessive wear of the crankshaft is not the cause but it should be checked to
rule that out as a possible cause. More
than likely the crank sensor or circuit is causing this trouble so start
troubleshooting there.
Indecision Over Approach To
Repair
Question 5I have a 2008 GMC Acadia with 17,000 miles. The power steering quit working. I went to my local shop. They flushed the system but that did not fix the trouble. It did improve it a little because when I speed up the engine the power steering is a little easier. My shop says to fix the trouble they will need to replace the pump and the steering rack. It’s an expensive job.
A friend who knows a lot
about cars says I should replace the pump.
That might cure the trouble. My
shop says metal contamination in the fluid probably has ruined the steering
rack. What do you think I should
do? D.R., email
Answer 5
There is concern that metal
from the pump has damaged the steering rack.
Be this as it may, flushing the system should have removed contamination
but since it appears you have driven the vehicle with the failed pump, a flush
is needed again.
At this juncture flush the
system and replace the pump. There is a
good chance this will return normal function.
If so, expect that sometime in the future the rack will fail and need
replacement. When it does you might need
to replace the pump once again due to contaminated fluid.
Check The Gas
Question 6My 2005 Honda Civic with a 1.7 engine stalled and would not stay running after several attempts to restart it. I had it towed to a repair shop where they have done all kinds of tests but can’t find anything wrong with the engine. They tell me everything is ok. There are no codes in the computers. They said they tested all the computers, replaced the spark plugs and checked ground wires and replaced the air filter. They told me the spark plugs keep getting wet but don’t know why. They think it might be caused by an air leak or a fuel mixture sensor but they haven’t found the cause of the trouble.
The shop is really busy due
to the cold weather so they can’t continuously work on my car. I love my car. I need it.
Do you have any suggestions?
R.M.B., email
Answer 6
Dump it. Buy another.
All kidding aside your technician might consider thinking out of the
box. I’m sure he is as frustrated as
you. If tests have not found any
malfunction codes at all and the spark plugs are wet he might consider testing the
fuel in the tank. Maybe your car is
suffering from contaminated gas.
Perhaps, it’s water or there is too much ethanol. It could be diesel fuel. If so, a thorough cleaning of the fuel system
and a fresh supply of gas might result in a happy ending to this issue.
Thank you for all the great
questions. Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to
answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist,
consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at
P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com. 02/03/2014 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present
No comments:
Post a Comment