Dr. Gizmo Column

"Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt

Cold Weather Brings On Loud Noise   

Question 1

My 2007 Nissan Murano with about 110,000 miles became louder than normal during the cold winter of January, 2013.  I thought for sure there was a hole in the muffler.  It seemed to happen upon acceleration and I could even feel a vibration on the gas pedal.

I brought it to the Nissan dealer and they said my engine mount was loose.  I decided at that point after I received the expensive estimate to switch to a local well reviewed mechanic.

My independent mechanic shop said they weren't real sure the noise was not a problem although to me it was and was driving me crazy.  They couldn't find anything wrong but did say it needed a new engine mount and that might help as the engine may be rattling around.  A new mount was installed but the noise persisted.

In May of 2013, I returned to the Nissan dealer to see if they had more insight.  They said for sure it was my front wheel bearings and for sure that would help.  They replaced them but after a test drive with a service representative the noise was STILL there.  I went back to my trusty local mechanic.  He said there was no way the noise could have been in the wheel bearings.  He had previously checked them.  Warm weather continued and the noise seemed to go away.

In November 2013 the LOUD noise is back and is always upon acceleration.  It’s still driving me crazy!!!   My car now has 133,000 miles on it.  Is it just getting old and thus loud and creaky like me?  What could be wrong?  Do I have to attribute it to old age?  L.Y., Crystal Lake, IL

 
Answer 1
It’s possible time and mileage has something to do with the development of the noise.  I know my bones creak more now than they did when I was younger. 

What you hear might be a resonant moaning sound in the exhaust system.  This type of sound can develop as parts in the system wear.  Sometimes sounds can transmit to parts within the cabin such as the brake pedal, gas pedal, shift lever or even the steering wheel.  It all depends upon the harmonic frequency or wavelength of the sound.  While a noise such this might be annoying it’s not typically a sign of mechanical failure. 

Not much can be done to stop the sound except to make sure the exhaust system is in proper alignment and secure.  It would not be wise to replace any parts unless there is road hazard damage or an internal fault such as a clogged muffler.  Replacing parts in hope of eliminating the noise could end with similar results you experienced with the engine mount and wheel bearings.

It’s also possible the sound emanates from the engine air intake system.  It often creates moaning and vibrations, too.  It’s common to hear sounds from the intake system but since it is loud a thorough cleaning might bring the noise level down.  Deposits of carbon and varnish in the intake manifolds and valve system could increase the noise level.  Ask your favorite technician to consider flushing deposits.  This might end your concerns.

Additionally, since your dealer thought the noise was from the wheel bearings, but was not.  It is possible for tires to make noises similar to worn wheel bearings.  Rotating the tires might resolve the issue or at least move the noise from the front to the rear.  This might verify the tires are at fault.  To cure this problem, replace the tires.

   

Turn Signals Quit
Question 2
I own a 2008 BMW 528i and the turn signals quit working.  When I flip the switch, nothing lights up on the dash and I don’t hear a clicking sound.  If I turn on the hazard lights, the lights in the dash click on and off. 

I checked all of the fuses.  They look fine.  I also checked all of the lights in front and back.  All of them are working. 

Is this something only a dealer can fix?  Do you know what’s wrong?  M.L., email

Answer 2

Definitely a dealer shop can repair the condition.  Also, there are independent shops that can handle the work, too.  If you search for an independent shop make sure they specialize in BMW repair. Consider them above other independent shops.

As for the cause of the trouble, this might be caused by a failed turn signal switch.

Car Fails To Start After Collision With Snow Bank

Question 3
On a snowy road the back of my 2013 Ford Focus spun to the left and I hit head-on into snow piled to the right along the road.  I hit pretty hard but the air bags did not go off.  There is damage to the front but it does not look too bad.  Unfortunately the car would not start after the incident so I had it towed to my home a few miles away.

At home I checked all the fuses and the battery connections.  Everything looks fine.  All the lights turn on and the radio and heater blower work fine.  The trouble is when I turn the key to start, nothing happens. 

The damage to the car looks minor.  The front bumper and grille is messed up and I noticed the top bar that the radiator is attached to is bent back a little but nothing else looks damaged.

I have called my insurance company about what happened.  They suggested that I take the car to one of their body shops to have it examined.  

I think I can replace the grille and the damage to the bar on the radiator and front bumper are not an issue.  I’m thinking there is a mechanical issue and would rather take the car to a repair shop that has been repairing our family cars for many years, but my insurance company would rather have their shop examine the car first.  What do you suggest?  C.T., email

Answer 3

Certainly you can do what you desire.  Take into consideration what your insurance company will cover if you file a claim.  If there is mechanical or electrical damage caused but the collision they might pay for the repair.  Also, the car might have sustained damage that you are not aware of. 

You can take your car to a shop of your choice, but you pay for insurance to take advantage of it when such an event occurs.  Consider this.  File a claim with your insurance company.  If you don’t submit repairs and don’t collect money from them they will eventually close the claim.

Since it appears you have a strong relationship with your mechanical repair shop, have them look over the car for damage from the roof to the undercarriage.  More than likely they will find damage is more significant than you thought.  Even minor damage can cost thousands to repair.  You have determined there is body damage but there might be damage to the engine and electrical devices.  If this turns out to be the case there are many advantages to move the car to a body shop your insurance company prefers.  Your mechanical shop might even know which shop in your area is preferred by your insurance company.  They might do mechanical and electrical repairs as a subcontractor to the body shop.

Whatever you decide to do, make sure your insurance company is kept in the loop as they hold the purse strings (less your deductible) should you want them to pay for repairs.

More Repair Work On The Horizon

Question 4
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 Super Duty with a 5.4-liter engine.  It’s my work truck.  During this time of year I use it to plow snow.  This year has been tough on the truck.  Last month the rear differential needed replacement because a bearing failed.  Now, I have a problem with the engine. 

Last week I pulled into a parking lot to begin work.  The truck ran fine to the job.  After I pulled into the lot, I shut off the engine to walk the parking lot.  When I returned to the truck it started fine but the engine was misfiring badly.  I had the truck towed to a shop.  After doing tests they replaced cam phasers and solenoids.  This did not fix the trouble.  The engine still misfires terribly.  Now they are not sure what causes the trouble.

I need my truck.  It has 66,000 miles.  Do you have any tips?  L.R.T., email

Answer 4

Plowing snow is definitely hard on equipment.  It’s time for a new truck.  I’m just kidding.
I’m sure your shop has performed more tests.  If tests find the same malfunction codes as before it might be time to consider there is a timing issue.  Perhaps there is a problem at the timing chain.  It might be wise for a technician to remove the cover over the chain for examination.  He might find a tensioner has failed or maybe the chain has jumped.  If so, replacing the chain and associated parts will get you back on the job for the remainder of the snow plowing season.  Think Spring!

 

Electrical Issue Hinders Four-Wheel-Drive

Question 5
This year I have used the four-wheel-drive in my 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser more than I think any of the previous years combined.  I’m sick of this winter and my Cruiser is feeling the pain.

The problem is that sometimes when I lock four-wheel-drive I hear a grinding sound and the transmission feels as though it is in neutral.  Then I have to deselect four-wheel-drive and shut off the truck.  When I restart, everything is back to normal.

I called my dealer about it.  They said to bring it in but the service person was not sure what they would find.  This makes me a little nervous.

Do you have any idea what causes this kind of problem?  D.R., email

Answer 5

I’m sure you have found that four-wheel-drive has come in handy this season.  I think a majority of us are sick with Winteritis which might manifest into Spring Fever.  Watch out!

Since this is an intermittent problem it might be caused by an electrical fault such as a faulty connection or maybe a failing motor.  An electric motor engages full-time four-wheel-drive.  More than likely your dealer will find this as the cause.

Cause Of Dead Battery Eludes Diagnosis

Question 6
I have a 2003 GMC Safari with a 4.3 motor and a problem with the battery.  I was driving along when the battery died.  AAA jumped started it and I drove home.  I installed a new battery but it died two days later so I replaced the alternator.  Now the problem is that if it is parked for more than 10 hours the battery doesn’t have enough power to start the motor.  The motor barely turns.  If I jump the battery it starts fine.

A friend who knows about cars checked for a draw on the battery.  There is something drawing it down.  He removed all the fuses but this did not stop power from being drawn from the battery.  When he disconnected the power wire on the alternator the draw stopped.  I exchanged the alternator for another and it has the same problem.  Now my parts store says there must be something in the car that’s causing the trouble. 

Do you know what’s wrong?  N.T., email

 

Answer 6

I’m here to help.  I hope you are working on the vehicle in a heated garage and not in the cold and snow.

Since removing the wire from the alternator resolves the power draw issue, it’s time to trace the circuit for chaffed or shorted wiring.  Once you and your friend do this I’m sure you will find the cause of the trouble. 

Consider getting a wiring diagram.  This will help immensely.  By doing so you can trace the wiring in the warmth of your home so you will be able to determine where you need to look for trouble before you head out into the cold.  You might consider asking your parts store for a repair manual or check with your local library.

Repair all depends upon on your findings.

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com.  02/10/2014 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present