Dr. Gizmo Column

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“Dr. Gizmo”

By Phil Arendt

No Simple And Quick Repair     

Question 1

Oil is leaking from the 3.0-liter engine in my 1999 Ford Ranger XL.  I purchased it last fall.  It’s in great condition for its age.  It only has 67,000 miles. 

For many years I have had my cars serviced at a local shop with a good reputation.  A technician determined the leak is from the oil pan.  He said it looks like there was a previous repair for this issue.  He said it’s possible a shop tried a shortcut to fix the leak.  He says that the only way to have a long-term fix is to remove the transmission and raise the engine so he can fully remove the oil pan from the engine.  He said it’s a lot of work that will take several hours to complete.  The cost of the gaskets in nothing compared to the labor.

Does this sound right to you?  D.M., email

Answer 1

We found two different methods of repair for this issue.  One requires all the work your technician suggests and the other does not require removing the transmission.  The procedure that does not require transmission removal suggests lowering the pan to remove the old gaskets.  This method does not provide enough clearance for a technician to effectively remove all the old gasket material.  Since this is the case there is more of a chance for leaks to develop not far down the road.  Your technician’s suggested procedure is a better option as he will have all the room he needs to clean gasket surfaces of all old material on the engine and oil pan.  His method insures a lasting repair.

Engine Fails To Reach Operating Temperature

Question 2

The heater is blowing warm and not air in my 2010 Chevrolet Equinox LT.  Also the check engine light is on.  It has a 3.0-liter engine.

I went to an independent shop where tests found the engine is operating at 150 degrees.  A technician replaced the thermostat but this has not cured the trouble.  He has checked everything but can’t find the cause.  He says everything appears normal except the temperature. 

The check engine light is still on.  I need heat or I will freeze.  Can you help?  N.Y., email

Answer 2

Your Chevy is shivering, too.  At least it doesn’t have a fever which would be worse.  The engine temperature should be anywhere from 195 to 240 degrees and not 150.  Since engine temperature is regulated by a thermostat your technician might consider replacing the replacement.  It’s possible it is defective or if he installed an aftermarket unit he might consider installing an original equipment part from a dealership. 

Once the engine is running at full designed operating temperature the issue with the check engine light should be resolved and you will have enough heat to toast your toes.

Loose Connection Stalls Engine

Question 3

My 2012 Chevrolet Impala LT cuts out.  It has a 3.6-liter engine and 141,000 miles.  It starts and runs fine but after I drive a few miles it cuts out.  It restarts as if nothing was wrong but it soon cuts out, again.

I went to a shop about the trouble.  They found codes for a bad MAF sensor.  They replaced it but afterwards the trouble continues.  They tried another sensor with the same results.  Do you have any suggestions?  D.L., email

Answer 3

You might consider dumping the car.  All kidding aside the cause might be related to the new mass airflow sensor.  If it’s an aftermarket part a technician might consider replacing it with an original equipment sensor.  Before doing that he might perform a thorough exam of the circuit.  It’s possible there is a broken wire or loose connection between the sensor and engine control module.  Sometimes a broken wire is hidden within insulation.  It’s important for a technician to wiggle and pull on wiring with metering equipment connected to the circuit.  A meter helps identify broken conductors or failed connection at a plug. 

Leaky Injectors Flood Engine

Question 4

The 5.4-liter engine in my 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty XLT misfires and the check engine light is on.  It has 134,000 miles.  I’ve owned it since it was new.  I have changed the oil every 3,000 miles.  It hasn’t given me a bit of trouble all these years until now.

I called a shop about the trouble.  They could not give me any suggestions as to what might be wrong.  They asked me to bring it in.

When I start, it’s hard to start and gray smoke spews from the exhaust and the engine runs rough.  After it warms up a little the smoke lessens and the engine smooths out but it does not run as smooth as it did before this issue developed.  The check engine light is on all the time.

I changed the spark plugs.  Three of them were very wet.  They smell like gas.  What would cause this?  G.T., email

Answer 4

Your description raises more questions but the cause of the condition might be leaky fuel injectors.  If this is verified by a technician it would be wise to replace all of the injectors as opposed to just the few that are leaking.  Generally, once fuel injectors begin to fail it isn’t long before all fail.  Replacing all of them at the same time will save time and money in the future.  Not only this, leaky fuel injectors can cause other failures such as failed catalytic converters.  Also, they can cause fuel to mix with the engine oil.  This can lead to failed bearings and ruined engine.

Clunk Sound Might Lead to Free Repairs

Question 5

I hear a clunking sound in front of the driver in my 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS.  I hear it when making turns left and right.  It does not matter how fast I am going around a turn or if there is a bump.  My local shop says there might be something loose in the front-end or a bad bearing in a strut.  My husband thinks it’s in the steering.

My car has 41,000 miles.  I’ve owned it since it was new.  It’s never been in an accident. 

Does this sound like a steering problem?  D.P., email

Answer 5

Your husband might be correct.  There has been a history of clunking sounds from the steering system of Sonatas.  If your shop verifies the trouble is caused by a failed steering coupling consider calling a dealership about the condition.  It’s possible the repair might be performed at no charge.  In the past dealerships have been paid by the manufacturer for replacing faulty couplings.  The manufacturer might do the same for you.  Also, while you are at a dealership, service department personnel might check for recalls that might affect your vehicle.  Five recalls have been issued.  A recall might apply to your vehicle.  Recall repairs are free-of-charge.

Engine Fails To Start After Repairs

Question 6

I have a 1999 Ford Taurus SE with a 3.0-liter engine and 97,000 miles.  I took it to a local shop because a heater hose was leaking.  While it was there they found an oil leak at the intake manifold. They replaced the heater hoses, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets and cleaned out a surge tank.  After they completed the work the car does not start.  They have had it for nearly a week but have not been able to determine the cause of the trouble.  They have removed the valve covers and intake manifold to examine wires for possible damage but everything looks fine.  They say they have never had a problem like this before.  They are still looking for a cause.  They have replaced several parts including the engine module and some sensors.  They say they are using good parts that they use for testing.

Right now I’m driving a loaner car but I want my car.  Do you have any suggestions?   S.T., email

Answer 6

I understand your concern and frustration.  It appears your shop is doing the best they can to reduce the inconvenience of this issue.

The trouble likely is caused by an electrical issue such as a poor ground connection or poor connection in a plug.  It’s likely while in the process of doing repairs a technician disturbed a wire harness.  Now he or she must carefully examine every plug and conductor for loose connections or perhaps a broken wire especially in conductors and plugs that are hidden behind the engine and under components.

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws.  01/29/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present