Recall Recap For The Week Of November 11, 2013

Hello everyone,

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has issued their list of recall from last week.  Since returning to work after the government shut down, they have been busy as bees.

This week's issues, failing steering parts, fires in electrical devices, door lock actuators that fail, flip seats that can pinch appendages, emergency vehicles that might stop dead, parking brake parts that can cause failures in the brake system, and wheel hubs that could separate.  All of these issues cause safety issues.

If your vehicle is affected, please have the condition repaired as soon as possible.

Please click on the following NHTSA Campaign ID links to view the recall information.

NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V553
Manufacturer :	Elite Trailers, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	ELITE / 2006-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V529
Manufacturer :	Chrysler Group LLC
Make / Model Years :	DODGE / 2008-2012
Subject :	Failure of the Left Tie Rod Assembly
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V528
Manufacturer :	Chrysler Group LLC
Make / Model Years :	DODGE / 2003-2008
Subject :	Failure of the Left Tie Rod Assembly
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V524
Manufacturer :	Turtle Top
Make / Model Years :	TURTLE TOP / 2009
Subject :	Electric Door Actuator May cause Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V520
Manufacturer :	Glaval Bus Division
Make / Model Years :	GLAVAL / 2009-2010
Subject :	Electric Door Actuator May cause Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V513
Manufacturer :	Outlaw Conversions
Make / Model Years :	4-STAR / 2006-2013 HART / 2006-2013 PLATINUM / 2006-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V504
Manufacturer :	A-Z Bus Sales, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	BLUE BIRD / 2005-2013
Subject :	Flip Seat/Possible Toe or foot pinch
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V496
Manufacturer :	Daimler Trucks North America
Make / Model Years :	FREIGHTLINER / 2014
Subject :	Emergency Vehicles may Shut Down
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V495
Manufacturer :	Spartan Motors, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	SPARTAN MOTORS / 2011-2013
Subject :	Park Brake Cable may Rub against Brake Line
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V493
Manufacturer :	Mack Trucks, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	MACK / 2014
Subject :	Steering Shaft May Loosen
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V492
Manufacturer :	Mack Trucks, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	MACK / 2013-2014
Subject :	Loose Spindle Nuts may cause Hub Separation
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V490
Manufacturer :	KZRV, L.P.
Make / Model Years :	KZRV / 2006-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V487
Manufacturer :	New Flyer Industries Ltd.
Make / Model Years :	NEW FLYER / 2013
Subject :	Brake Circuit Supply Lines Installation/FMVSS 121
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V482
Manufacturer :	Vintage Trailers Ltd.
Make / Model Years :	VINTAGE / 2007-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V479
Manufacturer :	Shadow Trailers, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	SHADOW / 2006-2012
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable

Dr. Gizmo Column

"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt

Air Pump Makes Excessive Noise

Question 1
When the 4.6-liter engine is running in my 2004 Land Rover Discovery there is an air pump that is rather loud and when I shut off the engine the pump makes kind of a grinding noise.  I called a dealer about this but they were of no help.  I also went to a local shop where a mechanic identified the noisy pump but he was not sure if the noise is normal or not.

I bought the vehicle six months ago and the noise has been there since the beginning.   What do you think?  D.H.R., email

Answer 1

Congratulations on your recent purchase.  Too bad the previous owner didn’t cure the trouble before you purchased it.

The pump should make little noise.  Since you can hear it in the cabin and it makes grinding noises when the engine is shut off there is an internal problem.  It’s time to replace it.

Body Control Module Gone Wild

Question 2
While driving in my 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with 87,000 miles the door locks start locking and unlocking, the power windows won’t work, the gauges jump and a warning on the dash for the stability system lights up.  I don’t have any warning that this will happen and when it does if I shut off the truck and start it back up everything is back to normal until the next time the troubles happen.  This might happen four times in a week or I can drive trouble-free for weeks at a time.

I went to my dealership where they replaced a switch for the brake lights but this did not fix the issue.  They told me to come back when the problem is present but so far by the time I get there the issues pass.

I love my truck.  The door locks repeatedly locking and unlocking drives me crazy.  Do you have any suggestions?  L.D.M., email

 

Answer 2

The truck might be possessed.  Consider an exorcism for the truck and an adult beverage for you.  All kidding aside, this sort of trouble might be connected to an issue in the instrument cluster such as a faulty ground connection or perhaps a failing body control module.  Even a loose or corroded pin in the plug on the body control module could cause issues.  Once a priest has done his work consider asking an experienced technician to check out the circuit at the rear of the instrument panel.

 

Technician Possibly Going In Wrong Direction

Question 3
I have a 2001 Honda CR-V with the red ABS light turning on intermittently.  The anti-lock brakes work when I slam on the brakes on slippery roads but the light sometimes turns on. 

I went to a repair shop where they did some tests.  They told me that their test equipment did not find any trouble codes.  They also said that during a test drive their tester lost communication with an ABS module but the light never turned on.  They say the ABS module is working so I should not worry that the system will fail but they don’t know why the light turns on.

Does it make sense to replace the module?  P.N., email

 

Answer 3

Hold off on replacing the module.  There is something fishy going on.  Before spending a bunch of bucks on a module ask your shop technician to check the red light.  Typically, an illuminated red brake light indicates the parking brake is set or the fluid is low in the brake master cylinder.  ABS lights are amber or yellow.  Since your shop does not find anything wrong in the ABS system perhaps they are looking down the wrong branch of the diagnostic tree.

 

Leak Leads To Big Project

Question 4
The oil pan gasket on my 1996 Ford Mustang GT with a 4.6 motor is leaking.  I’m pretty good when it comes to fixing cars so I wanted to replace the gasket.  I took a look under this beast and it looks like the engine has to come out to get the pan off.  I checked on line for another solution but there was no help. 

I really don’t want to remove the motor.  Do I need to take it out to replace the gasket?  L.D., email

Answer 4

Coat the engine with that TV advertised aerosol goo that floats a boat with a screen door in the bottom and there will be no need to yank the engine.  I’m just kidding.

It is not necessary to remove the engine.  Unfortunately, it needs to be raised as far as possible in order to remove the pan and gasket.  It’s also, possible the transmission cover needs removal, too.

Good Luck with your project!

 

Blinkers Intermittently Quit

Question 5
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition with about 115,000 miles.  Before it was out of warranty I had taken my truck into a Ford dealer at least three times but every time I was there they could not find anything wrong since it didn't act up for them.  My blinker has been doing this for some time.

If I’m at a stop light waiting to turn with the blinker on, all of a sudden it stops.  Sometimes I can wiggle the turn handle and it will start again.  At other times it will not.  Some days it works, some days it doesn't.  It can go weeks working and then it acts up.

No one seems to be able to give me an answer.  Do you have any ideas as to what I should be looking for?  J.D., St. Paul, MN

Answer 5

When all else fails power down the driver’s window and use hand signals.  All joking aside I’ll bet most motorists don’t know what hand signals to use in case the turn signals or brake lights fail.  I’m not talking about nasty hand gestures.  I’m referencing hand signals for left, right and stop.  To learn the signals go to the internet and search motorist hand signals.  There are numerous illustrations and videos.

 As for the condition, more than likely since the issue seems to resolve itself when you jiggle the multifunction switch handle, the likely cause is a faulty switch or there is a loose connection at the back of the switch.  To find out, a technician needs to disable the air bags and dig into the steering column to access the switch assembly and connections.  I believe there are three plugs on the switch so a loose connection might be there.  Repair might be as simple as placing more tension on a pin in one of the plugs or the switch might need replacement.

Electrical Power Draw Tied To 4WD

Question 6
The battery in my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban dies after being parked all night.  Since the battery was four years old I replace it but the trouble continued.  I also removed all the fuses to see if I could determine what circuit is causing the battery to die but I had no luck.  Now I am disconnecting the battery every night or in the morning it’s dead.  I found that when I connect the battery I hear a loud clunk sound under the vehicle.

Can you help?   N.K.W., email

Answer 6

Since this appears as a constant electrical draw on the battery the cause of the trouble should be easy to find by an experienced technician.  Also, since you hear a loud clunk under the vehicle when you connect the battery I suspect the noise is caused by the four-wheel-drive transfer case.  It may be engaging.  If so, a technician should consider testing that circuit.  Maybe the control module is faulty and needs replacement.     

 

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  10/07/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present

Recall Recap For The Week Of November 4, 2013

Good morning everyone.

Last week was another busy week for the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.  Vehicle safety issues were abundant with failed steering, fires due to leaks, failing brakes, failing instrument clusters, failed door locks, fires due to electrical failures and more.

If your vehicle is affected by any of these issues and is recalled please have the problem repaired as soon as possible.  You don't want to be injured or injure someone else if your vehicle is recalled and you fail to heed warning from the NHTSA,

Have a great week!

Please click on the following NHTSA Campaign ID links to view the recall information.

NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V527
Manufacturer :	Chrysler Group LLC
Make / Model Years :	DODGE / 2008-2012
Subject :	Failure of the Left Tie Rod Assembly
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V519
Manufacturer :	Play-Mor Trailers, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	PLAY-MOR / 2006-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V491
Manufacturer :	Harley-Davidson Motor Company
Make / Model Years :	H-D / 2014
Subject :	Fork Stem Bracket may cause Loss of Brake Fluid
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V489
Manufacturer :	Hyundai-Kia America Technical Center Inc
Make / Model Years :	HYUNDAI / 2009-2012
Subject :	Brake Fluid may Corrode Brake Module
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V486
Manufacturer :	Chrysler Group LLC
Make / Model Years :	RAM / 2014
Subject :	Random Loss of Instrument Cluster Lighting
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V483
Manufacturer :	Chrysler Group LLC
Make / Model Years :	JEEP / 2014
Subject :	Loss of ABS/ESC & Instrument Cluster Display
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V481
Manufacturer :	Spartan Motors, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	SPARTAN / 2011,2013-2014
Subject :	Steering Wheel may Loosen
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V480
Manufacturer :	Blue Bird Body Company
Make / Model Years :	BLUE BIRD / 2003-2007
Subject :	Battery Equalizers-Possible Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V478
Manufacturer :	Aluminum Trailer Company
Make / Model Years :	ATC / 2008-2013
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V477
Manufacturer :	Charmac Trailers Inc.
Make / Model Years :	CHARMAC / 2006-2007
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V476
Manufacturer :	Daimler Buses North America
Make / Model Years :	ORION / 2002-2010
Subject :	Battery Equalizers/DC-DC Converters-Possible Fire
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V473
Manufacturer :	Stealth Enterprises, LLC
Make / Model Years :	STEALTH / 2009-2014
Subject :	Interior Side Door Lock May Become Inoperable
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V472
Manufacturer :	Prevost Cars, Inc.
Make / Model Years :	PREVOST / 2005-2014
Subject :	Cold Tire Pressure Certification Plate/Part 567
NHTSA Campaign ID Number :	13V458
Manufacturer :	Altec Industries Inc.
Make / Model Years :	ALTEC / 2010-2013
Subject :	PTO Pressure Switch Oil Leak may Result in Fire

Dr. Gizmo Column

 "Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt

Interior Lights Shine When They Shouldn’t

Question 1
I own a 2001 Chrysler 300M.  The problem is intermittently the interior lights turn on while driving or when it is parked.  I had my dealer look into the trouble but they did not fix the problem. 

The battery took a beating from being discharged so I had it replaced.  I also checked for recalls without success.  Can you help?  M.K., McHenry, IL

Answer 1

It’s time to buy a new car.  All kidding aside the trouble likely is caused by a faulty door switch but it’s possible a control module is at fault.  If the car has been in a collision a technician needs to know about the repairs.  This clue will help find the trouble as even a poor adjustment in door alignment or door latch can cause this condition. 

Additionally, it’s possible a door latch needs tender loving care.  Lubricating the locks and latch assemblies could cure the trouble.

Right Turns Cause Clicking Noise

Question 2
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile 88 with 90,000 miles.  When making right turns I hear a clicking sound in the right front area.  The wheel bearing and axle on the right wheel have been replaced.  Also, the wheels have been aligned.  Is it possible the strut is causing the noise?  G.P., Algonquin, IL

 

Answer 2

Make only left turns and the trouble is resolved.  I’m sorry I could not restrain myself.  The noise in your car could be caused by a failing upper strut bearing.  It is not likely the strut itself is making noise.  It’s also possible the right constant velocity joint on the right axle is excessively worn and clicking.  The joint and axle are separate parts.

When you have a minute, with the vehicle stationary turn the wheels left and right.  If the upper strut bearing is causing the noise you might hear the sound.  If the noise only occurs when the car is moving more than likely a rotating part such as a constant velocity joint is the source of the sound.

Air Bags No Longer Work

Question 3
The air bag light in my 2005 Buick LeSabre turns on and stays on.  Can you tell me what is wrong?  P., email

 

Answer 3

There are many causes for the air bag light to illuminate including failed sensors, modules or even failed circuits.  The fact that the warning light stays on is a blessing.  This indicates that the trouble is constant.  A technician will have a much better chance of determining the cause of the issue than if the light was turning on once in a while.

Consider taking the vehicle to your favorite repair shop.  Tests will find the cause.  A common problem that causes this issue is a broken clock spring under the steering wheel.  If so, repair will be a snap.

In the meantime be aware the air bags will not deploy in a collision so have the system repaired as quickly as possible.

Warning Light Illuminates After Wiring Repair 
Question 4
I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe with 154,000 miles.  Except for the poor gas mileage, I really love the vehicle.   My question refers to the yellow security light on the instrument panel.  It stays on all the time the truck is running.  I've checked the fuses and don't find any blown.

I bought the truck new and this problem began after I had a wire repaired in the steering column.  Do you have any idea why this would stay on and how I can correct the problem, short of putting a piece of black tape over the light?  E.F.K., email

Answer 4

Duct tape comes in so many colors, patterns and styles you might find it useful to cover the light and it’s much more attractive than black electrical tape.  All kidding aside, it’s possible the wiring to the antitheft system in the steering column was damaged during repairs.  It’s also possible the antitheft system needs reprogramming.  Additionally, there may be a problem in the ignition key.

Consider revisiting the repair shop that repaired the column wiring to address the issue.  Tests should find the cause.  If this condition is caused by a misstep, you should not have to pay for repairs.

Time to Troubleshoot Circuit

Question 5
I have a 2005 GMC Safari with a 4.3-liter engine and 160,000 miles.  I’m having trouble with engine starts.  A friend who has a lot of knowledge about GMCs replaced the fuel pump.  After this the trouble continued so he did more testing and found a communication problem with the engine module.  He installed a new module and programmed it but the trouble is not fixed.  Now during tests one time his meter reads 12 volts at a wire and at other times the same wire reads 1.2 volts.  He says this is causing the problems.  He thinks the new control module might be the cause but he is not sure and the place where I bought the module won’t take it back unless my friend is sure it is defective.

Do you think the module is bad or is something else causing the trouble?  R.R., email

Answer 5

Today, most vehicle problems are caused by an electrical issue.  And certainly it is possible the recently installed powertrain control module might be defective.  Since your auto supply store will not take it back until it is proven defective, your buddy should consider troubleshooting the wire with variable voltage readings.  It might have a small break or it might be damaged due to chaffing against another part.  Perhaps there is a plug in the circuit where a pin terminal is corroded but your description of the trouble lends to a loose terminal.  He should check for looseness and corrosion. 

If a process of elimination proves there is nothing wrong in the circuit he can say with a reasonable degree of certainty that the PCM is defective when he returns to the auto supply store.

Tires Create Heat That Boils Oil 

Question 6
I have a Ford Explorer with a 4.6-liter engine and a differential in the front for four-wheel-drive that gets so hot it can’t be touched.  Also, once it gets hot oil comes out all over the bottom of the vehicle.

I took it to a repair shop where a mechanic filled the differential with oil.  We went for a drive and by the time we returned to the shop oil was dripping and it was so hot the oil was smoking on the differential.  We only drove about six miles.  My mechanic could not find any leaks.  The four-wheel-drive worked fine but after looking at the vehicle for a while he came to the waiting room to say that I had the wrong size tires.  He said that the tires in front are not the same size as the rear and none of them are of the proper size for the vehicle.  I purchased the custom set of tires online.  I had them installed but the shop that did the work never mentioned that they would cause a problem.

Does this seem right to you?  K.J., email

 

Answer 6

Tire size is a critical aspect in the ride and control of a vehicle and even more critical with four-wheel-drive.  It can also adversely affect the performance of the antilock brake, stability control, traction control and all-wheel-drive systems.  Not only can these systems be impaired but engine and transmission operation can be affected due to wheel speed sensor and other computer sensor inputs such as transmission and engine speed to manage fuel deliver, transmission shift points and more while driving.

More than likely your vehicle is suffering from differences in rotational speed caused by tires of different sizes.  This causes great stress on the differentials in the front and rear and the transfer gear box that connects the transmission and engine to the front and rear differentials.  This can cause huge torque differences and heat.  Obviously the heat built up in your front differential is high enough to cause oil to vaporize into smoke.  And that’s on the outside of the unit.  The temperature of the gears inside must be higher resulting in heat high enough to boil oil right off the rotating parts.  Continued operation with these tires and conditions will soon cause the differential and maybe more to fail. 

I suspect your technician suggests that you consider installing tires of the size originally intended for the vehicle suggested by the carmaker.  Take his advice.                

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  09/30/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present