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Friday, May 4, 2012

Northwest Herald Dr. Gizmo Column Dated Friday, April 27, 2012


"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt

Battery Dies In Key Fob
Question 1
I have a 2009 Mazda 6 and have been having trouble with the key transmitter.  I have to replace the battery just about weekly.  I contacted my Mazda dealer about the trouble.  The representative knows of no recalls for this problem.  They told me they don't know what could cause the problem and suggested that I bring the car in.

When my other transmitter stopped working they wanted $350 to replace it.  I don't want to spend $350 at this time.  Have you heard of this problem before? P.B., email

Answer 1
This is an issue that might be easily cured.  First, recalls are issued for safety related problems such as fuel leaks that can start a fire or parts that break potentially causing an accident.  Inoperative key fobs more than likely do not fit the government standard for a safety hazard although it is possible a lawyer could argue that not being able to open a door or start a vehicle is a safety hazard.
Certainly there have been troubles with the keyless entry fobs.  Some fobs for vehicles falling under certain vehicle identification numbers were not snapped together all the way at the factory causing the key and fob to separate.  Other fobs have problematic corrosion on contacts at the battery.  More than likely the trouble with your fobs falls under the terminal corrosion issue.  If so, replacement with an updated fob is the cure.  Ask your dealer representative to refer to factory technical service bulletin number 09-013/09 for details addressing the condition.

Brake Pedal Spongy After Brake Job
Question 2
For years I’ve been repairing my family’s cars.  I just replaced the brakes on my daughter’s 2005 Toyota Camry.  It has 110,000 miles, a 2.4-liter engine and automatic transmission.  I replaced the rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, drums, springs, rotors and the master cylinder.  I also flushed all the fluid from the system and used D.O.T. 3 brake fluid. 
After all of this work the brake pedal feels spongy.  I checked for leaks, pulled the drums and checked the calipers to makes sure everything is working fine.   I checked all of the springs.  They are proper.  I also bled the system two more times and the brake pedal still feels spongy. 
In the past I have never had this problem.  What am I missing?  R.R.N., email

Answer 2
Don’t let frustration overcome the challenge to find the cause of the trouble.   Once you find the cause, returning full function to the system will be sweet. 
Since your examination of the rear brake cylinders, springs, shoes and front calipers found normal function, suspicion points to a defect in one of the brake drums or master cylinder.
It is possible there is a manufacturing defect such as a crack in one of the brake drums.  Give the drums a close examination.  If one is cracked, return it to your supplier.
It’s also possible a defect in the master cylinder is at the root of the problem.  Make sure air is not trapped in the unit.  If no air is trapped there might be a defective seal within the unit.  If so, your supplier will be happy to exchange it.

Cruise Control Quits After Transmission Replacement
Question 3
The cruise control quit working in my 2003 Chrysler Town and Country.  The check engine light turned on when the cruise quit.  My van has a V-6 engine and 170,000 miles.  Coincidentally, this problem occurred on my way home from a repair shop right after I had the transmission replaced.  When I spoke with the transmission shop manager about the problem he said that it was not likely that the work they did has anything to do with the present problem.  A mechanic checked for computer codes and found code 123.  He said there is a problem with the throttle sensor.  I did not have him replace it.  Instead I took the vehicle to another shop.
The second repair shop found the same trouble code.  The mechanic replaced the throttle sensor, but the cruise control still does not work and the check engine light is on.  Now he says there is a problem in the wiring.  He says it is possible that something happened to the wiring when the transmission was replaced.  To fix the trouble he might need to cut open a large harness to find the wire that is causing the trouble.  It might take a long time and he wants to charge for the time it takes to find the bad wire. 
Is this coincidence?  Did the transmission shop damage a wire?  Do you have any suggestions?  M.N., email

Answer 3
A check of the wiring in a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country found a large harness that runs along the transmission.  Certainly it could be damaged in the process of replacing the transmission.  A check of a wiring schematic of the harness found wires indeed are connected to the throttle position sensor. 
Consider going back to the transmission repair shop.  Ask the manager to reconsider his position.  Also, instead of cutting open the harness to find the cause of the trouble and then repair it he might be able to run a separate wire in place of the damaged wire if in fact a damaged wire is the cause of all the trouble.  This certainly would save a lot of time and your vehicle will return to normal function.  Additionally, if a wire was damaged during the transmission repair, you should not have to pay to have the inadvertent damage repaired.

Steering Quits After Battery Replacement
Question 4
The power steering in my 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt quit working after the battery died.   I replaced it and the power steering was not working.  I attempted to check the power steering fluid but could not the tank that holds the fluid. 
Is this a closed system?  How do I check the fluid level?  Why would it stop working after I replaced the battery?  Is there a computer that regulates the steering?  N.L., email

Answer 4
Since there is no fluid reservoir your car likely has electronic power steering.  There is an electric motor that assists you to turn the steering wheel.
It is possible that during the process of addressing the dead battery a fuse blew.  Check the fuses.  More than likely you will find a large 50 or 60 amp fuse marked “steering” has opened.  If so, cross your fingers that nothing has shorted out in the circuit and replace the fuse.  If the steering system returns to normal function you are one lucky person.  If the fuse blows again there likely is a short somewhere in the system.  If the motor has an internal failure due to a short or defect it needs replacement.
Additionally, some Cobalts were affected by a safety recall for failing power steering motors.  If luck is on your side it is possible your car is affected by the recall and the repair could be free.

Poor Acceleration Despite New Spark Plugs
Question 5
I own a 2003 Suzuki Aerio with 110,000 miles.  When accelerating the engine lacks power.  It takes forever to reach cruising speed.  I installed new spark plugs and an air filter, but this has not helped.  The check engine light has not turned on, but I had the computer tested at an auto supply store.  There are no trouble codes in the computer. 
Other than this problem the engine runs smooth at an idle.  It just lacks power.  Do you have any suggestions?  M.N., email

Answer 5
Dump it.  I’m just kidding as usual.  Your Suzuki should have plenty of life remaining. 
There are two conditions to consider.  It is feasible that the catalytic converter has failed and is restricting the flow of engine exhaust.  Generally, this should turn on the check engine light and set a malfunction trouble code but there is always a chance a problem such as this will not set a code.  A check of exhaust flow and back pressure to the engine may find that the converter needs replacement. 
Additionally, it is possible the fuel pump is failing.  It may not be delivering pressure or volume within specifications.  Testing the pump should find if it is not performing as designed. 
Ask an experienced technician to consider these suggestions if you do not have the tools and test equipment to perform the necessary work to determine these possible causes for the condition.

Engine YieldsTo Overheating
Question 6
Recently, the 6-cylinder engine in my 2004 Land Rover Freelander overheated.  When it overheated, antifreeze was pouring out of both sides.  The vehicle was towed to a repair shop.  A mechanic determined that the cylinder head gaskets failed.  He said he pressurized the engine and antifreeze poured out.  He says the engine suffered severe overheating.  He said he could remove the heads and replace the gaskets but he is confident the engine is ruined from overheating.  He says antifreeze mixed with the engine oil and when that happens the bearings fail.  He wants to replace the engine.
The shop manager gave me estimates for installation of a used engine, an overhaul and a remanufactured engine.  The cost might be more than the vehicle is worth.  I did not run the engine very long after it overheated.  Is it possible to ruin an engine in a few miles when it is overheating?   T.G., email

Answer 6
Yes.  Overheating is a serious condition.  Continued operation under this condition can cause extensive damage.  What is described as coolant pouring out the sides of the engine indicates it ran so hot it almost melted into a molten glob of metal. 
Your technician can’t be sure of the damage until he disassembles the engine, but to disassemble it is expensive and symptoms support his conclusions.  It’s likely time to replace it. 
Since this is an expensive repair, consider towing the vehicle to another shop for a second opinion.
Thanks for all of your great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws. 4/27/2012 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989-2012

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