Dr. Gizmo Column

 Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt
 

Electric Car Replacement Batteries Expensive But Consistent With Engine Repairs

Question 1
My friend and I like to discuss cars and your columns on maintenance and repairs in the paper.  Much has been written on how wonderful all electric battery powered/hybrid powered cars are and the hype for them put out by commercials and sales people as being operating cost effective.  Nobody, however, has offered what happens down the road as these cars get older.  Sooner or later those batteries will have to be replaced.  My friend and I speculate cost could be prohibitive as these cars age.  Also replacing the high tech electronics needed to coordinate the complex operation of these vehicles might be expensive too.

Before customers get too excited from the sales pitch they need to know the full story of what happens later in replacing batteries and components.  Do you have any way to enlighten us on the possibly prohibitive costs down the road?   R.M.H., email

Answer 1

Obviously, much has been said about hybrid batteries in countless articles.  There are environmental concerns over the manufacture and disposal of the batteries.  There have been issues regarding the cost of the battery should it fail.  Certainly during the factory warranty period there is no consumer cost other than inconvenience to replace the unit or other electronics should failure occur. 
Your concern is how much it will cost to replace after the warranty period.  Carmakers have educated their dealer body so there is no need to worry about whether or not to take the vehicle to a dealer to have the task completed.  They have trained technicians, tools and parts available to complete the task.   Many independent shops are up to speed as well.  Also, there are companies that remanufacturer battery packs.      
The cost to replace a hybrid battery is not the national debt but much more than your average auto supply store 12 volt battery.  A remanufactured unit is around $3,000 installed.   To gain insight over cost and watch a video showing a hybrid battery replacement, go to http://greentecauto.com.

Anti-lock Brake Pump Makes Noise When It Shouldn’t

Question 2
When I apply the brakes in my 2006 Ford Taurus the pedal feels spongy and the anti-lock brake pump makes noise.  I went to a repair shop where they replaced the master cylinder and flushed the fluid from the system but the trouble continues.  Now they say their test equipment is not communicating with the ABS computer.
The car seems to stop ok but the pedal is soft.  Also, the noise from the ABS makes me worry something will burn out.
Can you help?  I.S.C., email

Answer 2
Maybe you should be ready to throw out an anchor just in case the brakes quit.  All kidding aside if worse comes to worse you can apply the parking brake to slow the car to a stop if it is in working order.
 
As for the trouble, since the pedal is soft and the ABS pump is making noise more than likely there is a problem in the pump and module that comprise the entire unit.  It seems as though the module has a fault or perhaps there is trouble in the circuit to the pump.
A faulty ground connection or corroded pin in a plug might be the cause of the trouble so a technician should consider looking into problems in the wiring.  It’s also possible the module has failed.  If so, it needs replacement.

Faulty Connection In Dash Impairs Starts
Question 3
Once in a while my 2010 Ford Ranger won’t start.  The engine does not crank when I turn the key.   When this happens the odometer shows several dashes and the anti-theft light blinks rapidly.  If I turn the ignition on and off four or five times the engine cranks, starts and runs normally until the next time the trouble appears.  This might happen once a month or twice in a week.  I just never know when it will happen.
I went to a repair shop where they did some tests but everything checked ok.  They said the trouble might be caused by a faulty ignition switch but they were not sure if replacing it would fix the trouble.  They suggested I call them when the trouble occurs.  I did and a technician came to my home to check the truck but when he arrived it started right up.
Do you have any idea what causes the trouble?  M.T.K. email

Answer 3

This condition might be caused by a module communication issue in the dash.  More than likely a loose ground connection or terminal in a plug is the cause of the problem.  Ask your technician to check the connections behind the instrument cluster.  He might find the trouble in the multiple pin plug at the back of the unit.  If so, just removing it and plugging it back in might cure the issue.


Salvage Yard Control Module As Good As New 
Question 4
My 2000 Dodge 1500 has a 3.9-liter engine and automatic transmission.  It’s the best work truck I have ever owned.  I’m on the road every day in the course of my work and it has seldom let me down despite having 366,000 miles on it.
Recently, after the engine warms up it runs rough and sometimes dies.  After a few minutes it clears up and runs normally.  My mechanic has replaced the oxygen sensors, distributor cap, spark plugs, ignition rotor and spark plug wires.  Before this problem started he replaced the fuel pump and catalytic converter.
My mechanic has done many tests but everything seems normal.  Now he thinks the engine computer is causing the trouble.  He suggested installation of a used part from a salvage yard.
Will a used computer cure the trouble?  Would it be worth my while to install a new computer?  M.S., email

Answer 4
Wow, the mileage on your truck exceeds the distance to the Moon.  You must be a preventive maintenance fanatic.  Keep up the good work! 
A new powertrain control module likely has a longer warranty than the used unit you are pondering but the used unit might last many years at less cost.  Also, if the used part has no faults and cures the condition it will perform just as well as a new module.

Technician Troubleshoots Invisible Foe

Question 5
I have a 2001 Toyota Avalon XL with a 3.0-liter engine and illuminated check engine light.  A shop tested the car and found a code for a leak in the evap system.  They did many tests and did not find any leaks.  Now they want to check the wiring at a canister but I did not authorize the work because they are not sure this is the problem.

I love my car.  It has 220,000 miles and other than normal maintenance has not given me any trouble until now.  It’s in great shape.  The light is annoying.  What do you suggest? E.T.T., email

Answer 5

Congratulations for traveling almost a quarter million miles without any trouble! 
The evaporative emissions system can be a real pain to diagnose and repair.  It’s designed to prevent fuel vapors from escaping into the air.  The trouble in diagnosing problems in this system is a technician can’t see vapor leaks and most of the system hoses, lines and seals are hidden from sight.  To find leaks he must use smoke to make the invisible visible and smoke does not always identify the trouble.  Also, there are several electrical devices that monitor and regulate vapors that could cause trouble.
I understand your concern but likely your technician is just as frustrated as you.  It is very possible that there is a problem at the canister.  The part may have a fault or the wiring may have an issue.  It’s time to give authorization to your technician to check it out.

Transmission Fails In Recent Purchase

Question 6
Six months ago, I purchased a 2002 Ford Explorer with a 6-cylinder engine.  It’s in great condition.
The other day I noticed transmission fluid on my driveway.  I checked the level and it was low.  I added a quart and by the time I got to work eight miles from home fluid was dripping on the ground.  I checked the level and there was no fluid on the dipstick.

I had the vehicle towed to a repair shop.  The shop manager called a while later stating that the fluid is pumping from a vent on the transmission.  He says he won’t know what is causing the trouble until the transmission is disassembled.  He suggested replacing the transmission due to the mileage on the vehicle.

My Explorer has 188,000 miles.  What would cause fluid to leak from a vent?  Would it be better to replace the transmission or rebuild it?  B.D., email

Answer 6

There are many reasons for fluid to leak from a vent such as overheated fluid caused by slipping clutches but in this case the likely cause is excessive wear of other parts as your description of the trouble does not indicate any other symptoms. 

To find the cause of the trouble a technician will need to disassemble the unit.  He may find only one part is truly the cause of the problem but since the transmission has propelled the vehicle 188,000 miles there are many other worn parts.  He will need to replace many parts including clutches, thrust washers, bands, drums, pistons (yes, there are pistons in a transmission) and internal seals to make sure it works properly when he reassembles it.  This is time consuming and more than likely will result in costing more than replacing it with a remanufactured transmission from a company that specializes in this type of work.

Before you make a decision, discuss the options with your shop manager.    
Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com.  08/05/2013 ® DR. GZMO © 1989 - Present