By Phil Arendt
To Repair Or Not Repair ABS System Is The
Question
Question 1Thanks for your column.
The ABS light comes on every now and then. My mechanic says he can fix it for $300 but I still have brakes just not the anti-lock brakes. Is it necessary to fix the trouble? R.M., River Falls, Wis
Answer 1
Yes. The anti-lock brake system is an important
safety feature that provides the ability to control the vehicle in a skid such
as an emergency stop especially in slick conditions.
Let’s image for a moment a
car suddenly stalls in front of you. The
road is slick. You slam on the brakes
and the tires lock up because the anti-lock brake system is not working. You steer to avoid a collision but it
continues to skid in a straight line and boom your car collides with the
rear. With anti-lock brakes the system
would pump the pedal so your vehicle maintains traction and your car has a
better chance of steering around a stopped vehicle onto the shoulder or open
traffic lane to avoid collision.
Also, think about the legal
issues. Your technician has informed you
what it will take to repair. You are
aware the ABS system does not work. Your
decision is not to repair it. If in the
unfortunate circumstance you are in a collision, a sharp attorney could make a
case on the premise you failed to maintain your vehicle. It could become a real hassle.
Since I investigate issues
for insurance companies you should be aware of what might happen. It’s your decision to repair or not. Also, $300 may seem like a lot to repair a car,
but in reality it’s not. On some cars
$300 is an oil change service.
Dim Light Sheds Light On
Possible Cure
Question 2I have a 2003 Ford Focus with a dimly blinking ABS light. Also, the battery goes dead about once a week. I have had the car to two different repair shops. One shop installed a new alternator. The second shop replaced the battery even though it passed tests. Despite this the light still blinks.
The second shop has done
some tests to determine if a circuit is causing the battery to go dead. They also found code 1318 in the
computer. In addition they found the ABS
light blinks and they think all of this might be due to the new alternator that
was installed at the first shop. They
said I should either replace the alternator with one from a dealership or
return to the other shop to let them address the trouble.
Does this seem right to
you? H.D.R., email
Answer 2
This is one of those
situations that can raise many questions and concerns as to the quality of shop
service, expertise and the parts they install.
Code P1318 is the result of
low voltage. This indeed could be caused
by a fault in the alternator. It’s also
possible an original equipment manufacturer alternator from a dealership will
fix the trouble.
If you return to the first
repair shop it is important that you explain everything the second shop
found. Your receipt for the work should
help with the details. The first shop
will likely test the aftermarket alternator they installed. More than likely it will pass tests. Despite this they may try another from the
same supplier as it might fix the trouble or they might need to install an OEM
alternator at additional expense.
Parts Work In Unison To
Accomplish Normal Starts
Question 3My 2009 Chevrolet HHR is difficult to start and the check engine light is on. It has a 2.0-liter engine and 57,000 miles.
I went to a repair shop where a mechanic replaced a MAF sensor. When this did not cure the trouble I returned to the shop. Now he says an oxygen sensor is the cause of the trouble. I did not have him do the work.
If I replace the oxygen
sensor myself, will this fix the trouble?
S.B., email
Answer 3
The performance of the mass
air flow sensor in part is affected by the oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is not functioning as
designed the management system may not kick in to adjust the air to fuel mixture.
It is not a long shot that
if you replace the sensor the technician suggested, the issue will be resolved.
Do-it-yourselfer Hits Snag
While Taming A Fast Idle
Question 4The idle in my 1995 Nissan Altima goes up to 2,500 rpm when I shift into reverse. It makes the entire car jump. I have to push really hard on the brakes before I shift or the car takes off. I can image that this is not good for the transmission.
I went to an auto supply
store for a computer test. An employee
said that my car does not comply with OB2 standards but he did determine that a
possible cause for the trouble is an idle valve. I purchased the valve and it looked pretty
easy to install but after the work the car did the same thing. I returned to my supply store and an employee
checked my work. He said it didn’t look
as though the valve was on correctly and suggested that I recheck my work.
I’m pretty sure I installed
it correctly. It looks correct to
me. Is it possible to install the valve
incorrectly? T.D., email
Answer 4
There is a correct way and
an incorrect way to complete a task. More
than likely what he probably meant is that the valve is not seated all the way
or a gasket that sits between the mating surfaces of the idle air control valve
and throttle body where it mounts is not in alignment or leaking.
Check over your work. Make sure there are no leaks at the gasket
and that everything is in proper alignment and has proper electrical
connections. Correct issues as needed. If you don’t find an installation issue
consider returning to the auto supply store and ask the individual to point out
what he thinks is causing the issue.
Then you will have a full understanding of what he feels is improper. Move forward from there.
Truck Overheats Under Heavy
Load
Question 5I pull a camping trailer with my 2004 Nissan Titan with a 5.6-liter engine. When pulling the trailer the engine overheats. When I’m not trailering the engine temperature stays within the normal range.
A local independent shop has
flushed the engine cooling system, replaced the thermostat and flushed the
transmission. This has not helped at
all.
Do you have any suggestions?
G.T., email
Answer 5
Sure, purchase a new Toyota
Tundra. All kidding aside the factory
configuration for your truck could have included an electric cooling system fan
or a belt driven cooling fan so repair depends upon the configuration under the
hood.If the cooling system is equipped with electric fans make sure they are operating as designed. Temperature sensors, wiring, electric motors and engine control module all have to be tested before a repair can be performed.
If the engine is equipped with a belt driven fan, make sure the fan clutch is operating as designed. If not, replace it.
It is also possible there is blockage in the radiator or the transmission cooler is restricted or clogged. If issues exist, replace the afflicted part.
Additionally, make sure your
truck can handle the load. The weight
capacities for towing include the weight of the truck and trailer with
occupants and equipment so make sure the load does not exceed truck weight
capability. If so, trim down the load.
Reverse Quits In Work Truck
Question 6Reverse quit in my 2002 Dodge Ram 1500. It has a 5.9-liter engine and 155,000 miles. This is my work truck so I need to get it back on the road as quickly as possible.
What do you think caused
reverse to fail? Would it be necessary
to overhaul it? Would replacing the
transmission with a remanufactured unit get me back on the road quickly? C.A.N., email
Answer 6
There are many reasons for
reverse to quit but more than likely a spring, accumulator or band broke. Despite what is broken your truck has rolled
155,000 miles of wear on the transmission.
It will need an overhaul.
The quickest way to get back
on the road is to install a remanufactured transmission.
Thanks for all of your great
questions. Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to
answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified
Master Technician. Readers may send
questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com. 07/29/2013 ® DR. GZMO © 1989 - Present
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