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Monday, September 8, 2014

Dr. Gizmo Column


 "Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt

Mystery Oil Might Cure Trouble
Question 1
I have a 1998 Honda Accord with a 4-cylinder engine.  I was out of the country for nearly a year.  The car was parked the entire time.  It was running fine when I parked it.  When I returned it cranked but would not start.  I had it towed to a shop where they did many tests.  They determined that the engine has very low compression.  They said it’s possible that the piston rings are stuck.  They might need to replace the engine.

My car is in excellent condition despite having 150,000 miles.  I have owned it since it was new.  I have always changed the oil every 3,000 miles.  I also follow the schedule in my maintenance book.  I have owned other Hondas and never had this problem.   Do you think my shop’s diagnosis is correct?  R.H., email

Answer 1
Piston rings can stick but it may not be necessary to replace or overhaul the engine.  Ask your shop to consider adding mystery oil to the cylinders through the spark plug holes.  After the oil soaks into the rings the compression might come back to normal and the rings will no longer be stuck.  This should be followed by a thorough chemical flush.  This might do the trick and return the engine to normal operation.

A/C Dye Invisible To The Naked Eye
Question 2
I've owned a 2007 Lexus ES350 since it was new.  It now has 80,000 miles.  Recently, I had a local mechanic add Freon to the air conditioning unit since it was not cooling properly.

It worked fine for three to four weeks and then began to malfunction again.

I returned to the mechanic who again added a small amount of Freon as well as some stop leak and dye for tracing a leak.  Thereafter, I checked the condensation on the ground and did not see any trace of the dye.

I'm about to contact him again but I'm concerned we may not be approaching the problem correctly.  I'd appreciate your comments.  Could this be something more serious?  B.D., Woodbury, Minn.

Answer 2
Depending upon which dye your technician used it might not be visible to the naked eye.  A special light and glasses likely are needed to detect the dye at the area of a leak. 

Additionally, you don’t want to see dye in the dripping condensation.  If it is in the water it means the evaporator core is leaking refrigerant.  That’s an expensive repair that requires disassembly of the dash.

It appears your technician is on the right track.

 
Vibration Is Normal
Question 3
Two months ago, I purchased a 2002 Audi A6 Quatro with a 3.0-engine and automatic transmission.  It has 155,000 miles on it.  The private party that sold the car gave me copies of all the service records.  It’s in great shape and runs great.

A week ago an engine mount broke.  My shop replaced the broken mount and suggested replacing remaining mounts due to the age and mileage.  They replaced all of the mounts at the same time.  Since the work I feel vibrations from the engine.   My shop says it’s normal to feel some vibration but they suggested replacing the mounts again but this time they want to install mounts from a local dealership.  The parts are more expensive and I will need to pay the difference.

Will installing the dealer parts eliminate the vibration?  K.L., email

 
Answer 3
It is normal to feel some vibration from the engine.  The dealer parts might reduce it some but will not completely eliminate all vibration.  While vibrations might be annoying it is not a condition that is consistent with a mechanical problem in the engine.

Computers Fail To Communicate 
Question 4
I recently purchased a 2001 Ford Escape with 16,112 miles.  It’s like new.  I was in an estate sale.  So far I’ve had the brakes replaced because the rotors were pitted from rust.  The shop that did the brakes also found dry rotted tires so I’m replacing all four even though they have plenty of tread.  Also my shop replaced all the filters, flushed the cooling system and changed the oil.  They suggested new spark plugs but I haven’t had any issues with the way it runs.

One issue that came up while they checked it over was that their diagnostic scanner does not communicate with computer modules.  They tried two different scanners but neither one could communicate.  They say that this might be caused by rusty wires and it might take a while to determine the cause.  I haven’t given them the okay to do any work. 

The car starts and runs fine.  No warning lights are on.  If the computer is malfunctioning wouldn’t there be a warning light on in the dash?  Wouldn’t it have problems like starting problems?  G.J., email

 
Answer 4
Logic would conclude that a warning light such as the check engine light would illuminate on the instrument cluster.  Unfortunately, logic sometimes flies out the window.  Sometimes electrical issues block communication between diagnostic tools and computer modules.  Since your vehicle likely was parked a majority of the time since manufacture, it is likely corrosion blocks communication at a ground connection or plug.  It’s also feasible a hungry rodent has created an issue by chewing on wiring. 

The first place to look for trouble is the circuit to the diagnostic link plug under the dash where a technician plugs in a diagnostic scan tool.  Since the car starts and runs fine it appears modules are doing their jobs controlling engine emissions and accessories, it is likely the cause of the concern is in the circuit that links diagnostic tools to the computers.  It should not take very long for an experienced technician to determine the cause.

Good luck with your new ride.  It should provide many years of service once this issue is repaired.

 
Scan Tool Fails During Computer Programming
Question 5
I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica with a 4.0-liter engine that stalled without any warning.  When this happened I attempted to start, but all it did was crank when I turned the key.  It didn’t even try to start. 

I had the vehicle towed to a good shop that has been servicing our cars for several years.  They determined that the engine module failed and installed a new one.  They were attempting to program the new module but it stopped at a certain point during programming and will not go any further even after several attempts.  Their top mechanic has tried three different tools to program the module without success.  At this point they are stuck. They suggest towing the vehicle to a dealership

Can you help?  T.D., email

 
Answer 5
One alternative is to send the vehicle to a dealership.  Sometimes aftermarket scan tools have trouble programming computer modules.  In such a predicament a trip to a dealership with a manufacture scan tool completes the job.  Sometimes local independent shops have a good relationship with a dealer and the dealer will lend the scan tool to them to complete the repair.  Another option that some shops utilize is contracting the help of a service that comes to the shop with a factory scan tool to complete programming.

Ask your shop manager to consider these options.  Perhaps the vehicle does not need an additional tow.

 
Rough Idle Develops After Oil Change
Question 6
I have a 1998 GMC Sonoma with a 4.3-liter engine.  It has 67,000 miles and is in great condition.  I’ve owned it since it was new.  I’ve taken great care of it by following the factory severe service maintenance schedule.  I also change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.  The trouble is that right after an oil change the engine runs rough.  I returned to the shop that did the work but they looked over the engine and did not find any issues with the spark plugs or anything else. 

I took the truck to another shop.  They showed me a broken mount on the transmission.  They replaced it but the engine still shakes.  This shop does not think anything is wrong in the engine or transmission.

The truck runs fine.  It just does not idle smooth.  No warning lights are on.  Do you have any suggestions?  G.R., email

 
Answer 6
The fact that the engine developed a rough idle immediately after an oil change is suspicious.  Consider checking the oil level.  Perhaps it is overfilled.  If this is the trouble the crankshaft is slapping against the oil.  This causes it to run rough.  If this is the cause of the issue, draining the oil to the proper level should cure the trouble.

 
Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address drgizmo@hotmail.com.  07/28/2014 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present

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