01/08/2018
“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt
Simple
Repair Turns Into Complex Operation
Question
1
I
was driving on the highway in my 2011 Kia Optima EX with 121,000 miles and a 2.4-liter
engine when it shut off as if I turned off the ignition. I tried to restart but I only heard a
click. After several attempted starts I
smelled an electrical odor. I checked
under the hood and saw smoke coming from the starter. I had the car towed to my home. I replaced the starter but I’m having the
same trouble. The engine does not turn
when I hit the start button. I just hear
a click at the starter. It gets very
hot.
I
have checked all the fluid levels. The
oil level is down about a half quart.
All the other fluids are full. I
also exchanged the starter with the same results. Is there a relay or something that is causing
this issue? E.H., email
Answer
1
It’s
not likely a relay or starter motor is the cause. What might be the trouble is the engine has
an internal problem that prevents it from turning when the starter engages to
crank to start. If you have the tools to
turn the engine by hand you might find the engine is seized or exhibits
excessive rotational resistance. If so
it’s time to send the vehicle to a shop for further examination.
The
engine might need disassembly to determine the cause of the issue. It might need replacement. Also, consider sending the vehicle to a
dealership. It’s possible with proof of
regular and frequent preventive maintenance you might receive repair assistance
from the manufacture. It is unusual for
an engine to seize at this mileage.
Replace
Or Repair Transmission
Question
2
The
transmission in my 2001 Chevrolet S10 with a 2.2-liter engine constantly
downshifts from fourth gear to third and back to fourth gear if I apply a
little pressure on the gas pedal. I went
to a shop to have it flushed and a new filter.
This did not cure the trouble.
I
went to another shop where they checked for codes. None were found. They suggested an overhaul.
My
truck is in great condition. I’ve owned
it since it was new. I have followed the
factory service schedule. It hasn’t
given me any trouble until now. It has
169,144 miles. Do you think an overhaul
is needed or is there an alternative repair that will cure the trouble? S.S.,
email
Answer
2
The
fact there are no malfunction codes is unusual.
Generally, an issue such as this results in some sort of code. Perhaps a reference signal does not meet
software criteria to turn on the light.
As
for the trouble, pressure tests might find a lack of hydraulic pressure. If so, it’s possible a seal is leaking or
perhaps excessive wear of the hydraulic pump is causing the trouble. It’s possible a valve bore is excessively
worn.
It’s
possible replacing the valve body will cure the issue but at this mileage there
no doubt is wear of clutches and other parts.
It might be wise to compare the cost of an overhaul and a remanufactured
transmission. Since your vehicle is in
top condition if you intend to keep it for a few more years, replacing the
transmission might be the best option.
Worn
Part Causes Vibration
Question
3
Recently,
a shop replaced the seals on the oil pump.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 156,000 miles and a 2.3 engine. After the repair I feel a vibration from the
engine that I did not feel before. I
returned to the shop. They checked over
their work but said everything was done properly. I went to another shop to have them check it
over. They said they feel the vibration
but found nothing wrong with the first shop’s work.
I
have owned this vehicle since it was new.
I have taken great care of it. I
have never felt this vibration before. I
feel it especially when the car is idling in reverse gear. It has an automatic transmission. What do you suggest I do next? Could something in the transmission cause
this? Do you have any idea what causes
the vibration? T.L., email
Answer
3
Don’t
fret. It’s not likely the transmission
has an issue. The fact the vibration
developed after the oil pump repair raises suspicion that lends to this task. It’s not likely the oil pump is the
cause. More than likely the issue is due
to misalignment of motor mounts or perhaps a motor mount needs
replacement.
This
condition likely is not due to technician error. It’s likely due to a worn part being
disturbed in the process of repair.
Sometimes a worn part fails but neither shop found a failure. Parts such as motor mounts adapt to a
specific shape after many miles of use.
They are constructed primarily of rubber. Once it adapts to a specific shape, when a
technician removes it and then reinstalls it does not conform well to the
mounting point on the engine cradle and engine.
This causes vibrations from the engine to transmit to the frame and
body. The fix for this condition might
be installation of a new motor mount.
Wiggle
and Giggle Will Find Cause
Question
4
Sometimes
the dash warning lights come on, the speedometer quits and the engine cuts out
and sometimes stalls in my 2009 Chrysler PT Cruiser LX. When this happens the engine restarts without
any problem and the dash appears normal.
This usually happens after I have driven 20 to 30 minutes. I went to a local repair shop that has
serviced the car several times over the years.
Their technician drove the vehicle for two days but the car acted
normally. He also did several tests but
no problems were found.
The
trouble seems to be getting worse. I
fear I will be stranded along the road. Can
you help? H.G., email
Answer
4
I’ll
do my best. Your technician found no
problem codes and the vehicle never displayed the condition during road
tests. This makes it difficult to find a
cause. Be this as it may, it’s time to
look for loose and corroded electrical connections. Wiggling wires might find the cause is a
loose terminal in a plug. It’s possible
worn contacts in the ignition switch cause all the symptoms.
Ask
a technician to consider these suggestions.
Give authorization for diagnostic time but limit time to a reasonable
amount. Perhaps an hour or a little more
would be agreeable to you and the shop technician. Repair might be as simple as repairing a
corroded terminal which might only take a few minutes to repair.
More
Work And Expense Than Anticipated
Question
5
I
have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 16 inch tires and wheels. I recently learned that 17 inch wheels and
tires were an option back when I bought the vehicle. I went to a shop to have new 17 inch tires
and wheels installed. They verified that
the tires and wheels were optional for my van.
I was told that they could install the requested tires and wheels but
the computer would need reprogramming. Also,
they insisted that I have them install tire pressure sensors on the new wheels
or they would not do the work. I checked
with another shop. They said the same
thing. The cost for reprogramming and
sensors was outrageous. I had them
install the tires, wheels and sensors without programming. Now the speedometer is off and the engine and
transmission are not performing normally.
They warned me about this.
In
the spring I intend to return to the 16 inch tires and wheels. Is it necessary to reprogram the vehicle
twice a year when I switch between tire and wheel size? D.B., email
Answer
5
Yes
indeed switching tire and wheel size requires engine control module
programming. The difference between
sizes alters transmission shift points, fuel economy, speedometer accuracy,
exhaust emissions and more. To bring
everything into factory specification it is necessary to program the engine
control module. Since you intend to
switch tires in the spring and fall expect programming to be a twice year
procedure if you want the vehicle to operate as designed.
Reset
Might Do The Trick
Question
6
I
have a 2004 Mazda MPV LX with a 3.0 motor.
I’m pretty good when it comes to fixing my family vehicles but this one
is beating me up pretty bad.
The
engine was missing and the check engine light was on and flashing. I went to an auto parts store for a
test. The employee found misfire codes
and lean codes.
I
replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils and oxygen sensors. I also replaced a cracked vacuum line and
cleaned the air flow sensor.
The
engine runs great now but I’m still getting a lean code. I’ve checked all over the engine for air
leaks with carburetor cleaner and propane but I can’t find a leak. Before I take this problem to a shop, is
there any way to reset the fuel mixture computer without using a scan tool or
computer? L.W., email
Answer
6
Yes. This might do the trick. Remove the cables from the battery. Bring both cable clamp ends together with
tape. Wait about 30 minutes. Reconnect the cables to the battery and go
for a drive at various speeds on secondary roads and highway. This might reset the fuel trims and you’ll be
good to go. If this does not cure the
issue, it’s time to visit your favorite shop.
Thank
you for all the great questions. Dr.
Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist,
consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at
his e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws. 01/08/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present
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