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Monday, January 21, 2019

Dr. Gizmo Column


“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

Loss Of Magnetic Field 
Question 1
The check engine light turned on in my 2007 Volkswagen Jetta Wolfsburg Edition.  It has a 2.5 engine and 107,000 miles.  The engine was running normally but I took it to a reliable shop that has been servicing it for many years.  They did several tests.  They checked for compression and misfires.  They found one cylinder was misfiring more often than others.  They replaced the fuel injector, spark plug and ignition coil but the mechanic says this cylinder and others still misfire.  He does not know what causes the trouble.  He says I should drive it until it gets worse.  I took the vehicle as is.
I feel the car is running normally but the light is on.  I’ve owned it since it was new and it seems fine.  I do need to get this repaired before a state emission test but for now I’m going to drive it.  Could this be caused by a computer problem?  H.K., email

Answer 1
Maybe, but more probing is needed.  It appears your technician found random misfire codes with one cylinder misfiring more often than others.  He attempted to resolve the issue with the parts he installed but the misfire condition continued. 
At this point it is time for him to think out of the box.  Maybe this will help.  A search of professional web sites found a rare case with similar symptoms.  In this case a technician found a magnetic dead zone on the crankshaft ring.  The crankshaft ring is monitored by a sensor.  The sensor sends a signal to the engine computer.  The engine computer uses the signal to fire the spark plugs.  If the magnetic field on a portion of the ring is lost, the spark plugs will not fire at the proper time.  Perhaps your technician might take this into consideration the next time your wheels roll into his service bay.  If he finds this is the cause of the trouble replacing the ring will cure the issue.

New Pump No Cure
Question 2
The power steering failed in my 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD.  It has 142,000 miles.  I went to a shop where they replaced the pump.  This reduced steering effort but now fluid leaks from the cap on the reservoir and the steering is not as easy as it used to be.  My shop replaced the cap but this has not fixed the trouble.  They said they contacted a tech line and were told to check for blockage in the steering gear.  They replaced the gear but the trouble continues.
Do you have any suggestions?  D.L., email

Answer 2
It’s possible the newly installed pump is defective.  It’s also possible lines connected to the pump were not properly installed.  Perhaps the hydro-boost unit in the system has a defective valve.  Since fluid is leaking from the cap, suspicion points toward an issue with the pump or installation of the hoses connected to it.  Ask your shop manager to consider another look at the installation.

Blown Tire Impairs Engine Starts
 Question 3
The right rear tire blew out on my 2014 Dodge Charger R/T.  I limped to the roadside and shut off the engine.  As waited for road service I attempted to start the engine but it did not respond at all.  I had it towed to a shop where the car would not start for them.  They replaced all four tires and performed several tests to determine why it would not start. 
They told me to come to the shop with all my key fobs because they thought there was an issue with the one I gave them.  The car does not respond to either key fob.  The door locks and other functions do not work.  When the start button is pressed to start, the car does nothing.  They checked the car battery and batteries in the fobs.  The batteries are fine.  Now they suggest that I have the car towed to a dealership for further diagnostic work.  Before I do that do you have any suggestions?  R.B., email

Answer 3
It’s time to trade it in for a 2018 Dodge Charger Hellcat.  All kidding aside it appears excessive tire spin wear might be an issue and possibly the cause of this condition.  If so trading your wheels for a 707 horsepower Hellcat will cause more trouble.  Since the no-start problem began with a blow-out at the right rear tire it may behoove a technician to look for damage beyond the wheel house liner.  It’s possible tire debris damaged wiring or components hidden behind the liner.  If there is damage to conductors or components this causes modules to go bonkers.  This could cause the all the trouble.  Repairing a broken or shorted wire might be the cure you seek.

Many Appreciated Thanks
Question 4
Good morning.  As always you have excellent articles.  Recently, I read a question from L.M. about an S10 and another question about a 1997 Dodge that stall after 10 minutes.  I'm going with a failed crankshaft sensor.   Will I see the answers down the line?  D.D., email

Answer 4
The answers accompany the questions.  It indeed is possible that a failed crankshaft sensor is the cause of the stalling engines in both vehicles.  Sometimes we receive an update from a reader.  Often we do receive a thank you that states the diagnosis and repair has cured an issue.  When we do receive a thank you, it is much appreciated and is the main reason for writing this column.

Ticking Sound Ends With Expensive Repair
Question 5
Dear Dr. Gizmo, keep up the great work.  I’m writing in regard to H.M.'s letter in today’s paper about a tapping noise in his 5.3-liter engine.  I too suddenly developed a loud banging tappet noise that proved to be a $3,500 serious problem.  When the problem occurred, I was able to limp into my Chevrolet dealership.  This engine has roller tappets.  Groups of four tappets are incased in a hard plastic-like housing, which guides their up and down movement while riding on the camshaft, holding them at the correct angle so that the roller stays parallel to the cam lobes. Unfortunately, this housing wears out allowing one or more tappets to start to rotate eventually to the point where the roller no longer rolls but starts to slide 90 degrees to the camshaft causing damage to the lifters, valves and camshaft.  I understand that this is not an uncommon problem with this engine.  My 2008 Avalanche was seven years old at the time of this problem with 63,000 miles on it.
I hope this is not the problem with H.M.'s 2008 Silverado.  Do you?  P.G., email

Answer 5
H.M. was concerned about a ticking sound in his truck.  It is possible the 5.3-liter engine is suffering from the same condition.  Let’s hope not.  Ticking sounds are a symptom of several afflictions.  A simple problem such as an excessively worn serpentine belt might exhibit ticking sounds. 

Add-On Damages Engine Computer
Question 6
I have 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD with a 6.6-liter engine that I purchased about a year ago.  It has 115,000 miles and is in like new condition.  Recently, I took it for an emissions test.  It failed.
I went to a shop that specializes in GM diesel repairs.  A technician tested the computer and found that his test equipment does not communicate with the truck.  It’s the same problem the emission center was having.  My mechanic proceeded to reprogram the computer but had the same problem.  After some examination he found a tuner device was installed.  He removed it but the computer still did not respond to reprogramming.  Now he says the computer must have a virus or was corrupted by the tuner device.  He says he needs to replace it.  Does this sound right to you?  R.S., email

Answer 6
Congratulations on your recent purchase.  Once this issue is resolved it might roll along for another 200,000 miles or more before the engine needs major repair.
First, some readers might not know what a tuner is.  It’s an aftermarket electronic device that a person adds that alters factory computer programming.  It is intended to enhance engine performance such as fuel economy and horsepower.
As for the trouble, the tuner might have permanently altered the engine control module.  If so, the fix is to remove the tuner and replace the failed module with an original equipment part.
 
Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws.  More information is available at http://drgizmo89.blogspot.com  01/22/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present  

Monday, January 14, 2019

Dr. Gizmo Column


“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

Faulty Switch Turns On Warning Lights   
Question 1
Intermittently the brake, srs and 4X4 warning lights turn on in my 2009 BMW X3 30i with XDrive.  Also, the cruise control does not work when these lights are on.
I’ve gone to a dealership and independent shop.  Both performed tests but were not sure of the cause.  A dealership technician did not experience the trouble.  Tests found no issues.  He speculated there is a loose connection somewhere.  They wanted more time for test drives and diagnosis.
The independent shop did experience the lights during a drive but said the cruise control was working fine when the lights were on.  By the time the test drive was complete everything was back to normal.  They think there is a loose connection.  They also found low voltage to a device that wavered when they cycled the ignition.  They checked the battery.  It’s fine.  Now they think the switch is the cause of the trouble but are not positive replacing it will fix the trouble.
Have you ever heard of anything like this?  Do you think a new switch will fix it?  T.D., email

Answer 1
Low voltage causes all kinds of issues.  Since it is likely that your vehicle has more than 100,000 miles it is possible the ignition switch has a fault that causes low voltage.  Also, the intermittent nature of the condition lends suspicion to an issue in the switch.  Tests of the switch also show inconsistent and irregular voltage.  Consider replacing the switch.  It just might be the cure you seek.

Low Voltage Stalls Engine
Question 2
My 2005 Honda Civic LX with a 1.7-liter 4-cylinder engine cuts out at 55 mph.  This happens after driving greater than 20 miles.  I have to coast to the side of the road.  I have to call my son who comes and jumps the battery.  It starts right up when he jumps it.  When the car stalls the radio stops working and I hear a squealing sound.  A mile or so later the engine quits.
I went to a shop about the problem.  They checked the battery, ignition switch and replaced a knocking sensor.  This did not fix it. 
Can you help?  D.N., email
   
Answer 2
The fact your heroic son comes to the rescue and jumps the battery raises suspicion there is a voltage or amperage issue.  It seems the sound you hear might be caused by the serpentine belt.  It’s also possible the radio shutting off indicates a low voltage condition.  Your shop checked the battery and did not replace it, it seems it’s in good condition.  They might find another cause such as a poor battery cable connection or perhaps the alternator is not performing as designed. 
Ask your favorite shop to consider these suggestions the next time your car rolls into their serviced bay

Time To Probe Circuit
Question 3
The ABS warning light turned on in my 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix GT with a 3.8-liter engine.  I had the car tested.  The code said the right front sensor was bad.  I replaced the sensor and cleared the codes by connecting the battery cables together for a full reset.  I drove the car but the ABS light came back on.  This time a test showed codes for three sensors.  I replaced the ABS module with a unit from a salvage yard.  After this the light turned back on.  This time a test showed the right front sensor was bad again.  I replaced it a second time but with the same results. 
Do you have any suggestions?  R.T., email

Answer 3
Yep.  This is likely due to an issue in the circuit such as a broken wire between the right front sensor and the antilock brake module. 
Since it appears you are an experienced do-it-yourselfer it’s time to trace wiring.  You might find a wire is completely broken or the break might be hidden within the insulation.  A wiring diagram will be of great assistance in probing the circuits.

Car Fails To Go Fast
Question 4
I have a 2009 Honda Accord LX-P with a 2.4-liter engine and 118,000 miles.  It hesitates when I accelerate and it won’t go over 30 mph even if I hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor.  I had it tested at an auto supply store.  Codes came up for misfires on cylinders two and three. 
I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils.  The engine runs smooth at an idle but when I step on the gas the engine coughs and the check engine light flashes.  What else would cause this problem?  H.S., email

Answer 4
Don’t replace any parts based upon my suggestions unless one is verified as failed.
The issue might be caused by a clogged catalytic converter.  It’s also possible the two cylinders lack compression due to excessive wear.  Perhaps the fuel pump is failing.  Maybe the valves need adjustment.  Maybe there is a faulty sensor such as a failed crankshaft sensor.  Perhaps the circuit to the crankshaft sensor is open and needs repair. 
Once tests find the failure repair might be as simple as fixing a broken wire.

More Clearance Needed
Question 5
I have a 1999 Chevrolet Tracker 2.0L with a heater blower that is making noise.  I have replaced the motor in other car heaters but this one is giving me trouble.  I have removed the bolts that secure it but when I pull to remove it there is not enough clearance to get the fan portion of the motor out of the heater case without breaking the fan.  My new fan is a complete unit with the motor and fan.  If I break the fan taking the old one out I’m sure to break the new one. 
Is there a trick to get this out?  D., email

Answer 5
There isn’t a trick or short cut.  It’s likely the heater case needs to be removed.  However, loosening it might provide the needed room for you to remove the unit.  Good luck with this task.

Transplant Or Overhaul On The Agenda
Question 6
I’d like you opinion.  The automatic transmission in my 2011 BMW X5 XDrive 35i has no forward or reverse gears.  The car moves a little in neutral if I rev the engine.  I had it towed to a shop where they found codes for transmission problems.  They took off a pan and found chunks of metal but the fluid looked clean and did not have a burnt odor.  They say the transmission is shot and needs replacement.
I’ve owned the car since it was new.  It has 109,000 miles.  Do you think the transmission is shot?  N.W., email

Answer 6
Sorry to deliver bad news but it appears your shop is on the right track.  It is normal to find some metallic glitter in the pan but chunks of metal is evidence of a broken gear or drum.  If this is what they are suggesting the transmission is suffering from a major issue and needs an overhaul or replace it with a remanufactured unit. 

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws.  01/15/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present  

Monday, January 7, 2019

Dr. Gizmo Column


01/08/2018

“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

Simple Repair Turns Into Complex Operation   
Question 1
I was driving on the highway in my 2011 Kia Optima EX with 121,000 miles and a 2.4-liter engine when it shut off as if I turned off the ignition.  I tried to restart but I only heard a click.  After several attempted starts I smelled an electrical odor.  I checked under the hood and saw smoke coming from the starter.  I had the car towed to my home.  I replaced the starter but I’m having the same trouble.  The engine does not turn when I hit the start button.  I just hear a click at the starter.  It gets very hot. 
I have checked all the fluid levels.  The oil level is down about a half quart.  All the other fluids are full.  I also exchanged the starter with the same results.  Is there a relay or something that is causing this issue?   E.H., email

Answer 1
It’s not likely a relay or starter motor is the cause.  What might be the trouble is the engine has an internal problem that prevents it from turning when the starter engages to crank to start.  If you have the tools to turn the engine by hand you might find the engine is seized or exhibits excessive rotational resistance.  If so it’s time to send the vehicle to a shop for further examination.
The engine might need disassembly to determine the cause of the issue.  It might need replacement.  Also, consider sending the vehicle to a dealership.  It’s possible with proof of regular and frequent preventive maintenance you might receive repair assistance from the manufacture.  It is unusual for an engine to seize at this mileage.

Replace Or Repair Transmission
Question 2
The transmission in my 2001 Chevrolet S10 with a 2.2-liter engine constantly downshifts from fourth gear to third and back to fourth gear if I apply a little pressure on the gas pedal.  I went to a shop to have it flushed and a new filter.  This did not cure the trouble. 
I went to another shop where they checked for codes.  None were found.  They suggested an overhaul.
My truck is in great condition.  I’ve owned it since it was new.  I have followed the factory service schedule.  It hasn’t given me any trouble until now.  It has 169,144 miles.  Do you think an overhaul is needed or is there an alternative repair that will cure the trouble?   S.S., email

Answer 2
The fact there are no malfunction codes is unusual.  Generally, an issue such as this results in some sort of code.  Perhaps a reference signal does not meet software criteria to turn on the light.
As for the trouble, pressure tests might find a lack of hydraulic pressure.  If so, it’s possible a seal is leaking or perhaps excessive wear of the hydraulic pump is causing the trouble.  It’s possible a valve bore is excessively worn. 
It’s possible replacing the valve body will cure the issue but at this mileage there no doubt is wear of clutches and other parts.  It might be wise to compare the cost of an overhaul and a remanufactured transmission.  Since your vehicle is in top condition if you intend to keep it for a few more years, replacing the transmission might be the best option.

Worn Part Causes Vibration
Question 3
Recently, a shop replaced the seals on the oil pump.  I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 156,000 miles and a 2.3 engine.  After the repair I feel a vibration from the engine that I did not feel before.  I returned to the shop.  They checked over their work but said everything was done properly.  I went to another shop to have them check it over.  They said they feel the vibration but found nothing wrong with the first shop’s work.
I have owned this vehicle since it was new.  I have taken great care of it.  I have never felt this vibration before.  I feel it especially when the car is idling in reverse gear.  It has an automatic transmission.  What do you suggest I do next?  Could something in the transmission cause this?  Do you have any idea what causes the vibration?  T.L., email

Answer 3
Don’t fret.  It’s not likely the transmission has an issue.  The fact the vibration developed after the oil pump repair raises suspicion that lends to this task.  It’s not likely the oil pump is the cause.  More than likely the issue is due to misalignment of motor mounts or perhaps a motor mount needs replacement. 
This condition likely is not due to technician error.  It’s likely due to a worn part being disturbed in the process of repair.  Sometimes a worn part fails but neither shop found a failure.  Parts such as motor mounts adapt to a specific shape after many miles of use.  They are constructed primarily of rubber.  Once it adapts to a specific shape, when a technician removes it and then reinstalls it does not conform well to the mounting point on the engine cradle and engine.  This causes vibrations from the engine to transmit to the frame and body.  The fix for this condition might be installation of a new motor mount.

Wiggle and Giggle Will Find Cause
Question 4
Sometimes the dash warning lights come on, the speedometer quits and the engine cuts out and sometimes stalls in my 2009 Chrysler PT Cruiser LX.  When this happens the engine restarts without any problem and the dash appears normal.  This usually happens after I have driven 20 to 30 minutes.  I went to a local repair shop that has serviced the car several times over the years.  Their technician drove the vehicle for two days but the car acted normally.  He also did several tests but no problems were found. 
The trouble seems to be getting worse.  I fear I will be stranded along the road.  Can you help?  H.G., email

Answer 4
I’ll do my best.  Your technician found no problem codes and the vehicle never displayed the condition during road tests.  This makes it difficult to find a cause.  Be this as it may, it’s time to look for loose and corroded electrical connections.  Wiggling wires might find the cause is a loose terminal in a plug.  It’s possible worn contacts in the ignition switch cause all the symptoms. 
Ask a technician to consider these suggestions.  Give authorization for diagnostic time but limit time to a reasonable amount.  Perhaps an hour or a little more would be agreeable to you and the shop technician.  Repair might be as simple as repairing a corroded terminal which might only take a few minutes to repair.

More Work And Expense Than Anticipated
Question 5
I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 16 inch tires and wheels.  I recently learned that 17 inch wheels and tires were an option back when I bought the vehicle.  I went to a shop to have new 17 inch tires and wheels installed.  They verified that the tires and wheels were optional for my van.  I was told that they could install the requested tires and wheels but the computer would need reprogramming.  Also, they insisted that I have them install tire pressure sensors on the new wheels or they would not do the work.  I checked with another shop.  They said the same thing.  The cost for reprogramming and sensors was outrageous.  I had them install the tires, wheels and sensors without programming.  Now the speedometer is off and the engine and transmission are not performing normally.  They warned me about this. 
In the spring I intend to return to the 16 inch tires and wheels.  Is it necessary to reprogram the vehicle twice a year when I switch between tire and wheel size?  D.B., email

Answer 5
Yes indeed switching tire and wheel size requires engine control module programming.  The difference between sizes alters transmission shift points, fuel economy, speedometer accuracy, exhaust emissions and more.  To bring everything into factory specification it is necessary to program the engine control module.  Since you intend to switch tires in the spring and fall expect programming to be a twice year procedure if you want the vehicle to operate as designed.

Reset Might Do The Trick
Question 6
I have a 2004 Mazda MPV LX with a 3.0 motor.  I’m pretty good when it comes to fixing my family vehicles but this one is beating me up pretty bad. 
The engine was missing and the check engine light was on and flashing.  I went to an auto parts store for a test.  The employee found misfire codes and lean codes. 
I replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils and oxygen sensors.  I also replaced a cracked vacuum line and cleaned the air flow sensor. 
The engine runs great now but I’m still getting a lean code.  I’ve checked all over the engine for air leaks with carburetor cleaner and propane but I can’t find a leak.  Before I take this problem to a shop, is there any way to reset the fuel mixture computer without using a scan tool or computer?  L.W., email

Answer 6
Yes.  This might do the trick.  Remove the cables from the battery.  Bring both cable clamp ends together with tape.  Wait about 30 minutes.  Reconnect the cables to the battery and go for a drive at various speeds on secondary roads and highway.  This might reset the fuel trims and you’ll be good to go.  If this does not cure the issue, it’s time to visit your favorite shop.

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws.  01/08/2018 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present  

NHTSA Vehicle Recalls for January 7, 2019

Good morning.  Happy New Year!

I hope everyone had safe motoring holidays.

For the past couple of weeks the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has not released their weekly list of recalls.  This week is different.  Their list is shorter than usual but none the less important.

This week safety issues include fuel leaks, steering problems. air bag troubles, reflector issues, welds that might break, brake system problems and more. 

Please review the list.  If your vehicle is affected by a recall please have it repaired as quickly as possible.  Recall repairs performed at your dealer are free of charge. 

Have a safe motoring week!



To find out if your specific passenger vehicle is included in the recall, use our VIN Look-up Tool.
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC.
Subject :
Steering Rack Locknut May Fail, Affecting Steering
Make
Model
Model Years
MERCEDES BENZ
C300
2015-2019
MERCEDES BENZ
C350E
2018-2019
MERCEDES BENZ
C63 AMG
2017-2019
MERCEDES BENZ
C63S AMG
2015, 2018
MERCEDES BENZ
CLS450
2019
MERCEDES BENZ
E300
2018
MERCEDES BENZ
E400
2018
MERCEDES BENZ
E450
2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Heartland Recreational Vehicles, LLC
Subject :
Reflectors may not be Installed/FMVSS 108
Make
Model
Model Years
HEARTLAND
ELK RIDGE
2019
HEARTLAND
ELK RIDGE EXPRESS
2019
HEARTLAND
MILESTONE
2019
HEARTLAND
PIONEER
2019
HEARTLAND
SUNDANCE
2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Keystone RV Company
Subject :
Spindle Weld Failure may cause Wheel Separation
Make
Model
Model Years
KEYSTONE
MONTANA
2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Winnebago Industries, Inc
Subject :
Missing Edge Protection on Liquid Propane Lines
Make
Model
Model Years
WINNEBAGO
FORZA
2018-2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
McNeilus Truck & Manufacturing, Inc.
Subject :
CNG Tank Valve Stem may Eject from Valve Body
Make
Model
Model Years
MCNEILUS
ATLANTIC FRONT LOADER
2016-2018
MCNEILUS
BRIDGEMASTER V MIXER
2016-2018
MCNEILUS
MERIDIAN FRONT LOADER 78
2016-2018
MCNEILUS
STANDARD MIXER
2016-2018
MCNEILUS
XE REAR LOADER
2016-2018
OSHKOSH
S-SERIES
2016-2018
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Volkswagen Group of America, Inc.
Subject :
Improperly Secured Fuel Line may cause Fuel Leak
Make
Model
Model Years
AUDI
A3
2018
AUDI
TT
2018
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Volkswagen Group of America, Inc.
Subject :
Improperly Secured Fuel Line may cause Fuel Leak
Make
Model
Model Years
VOLKSWAGEN
GOLF R
2018
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
General Motors LLC
Subject :
Passenger Air Bag Module Damaged During Assembly
Make
Model
Model Years
CHEVROLET
SILVERADO 1500
2019
GMC
SIERRA 1500
2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Mercedes-Benz USA, LLC.
Subject :
Steering Coupling may not have been Locked
Make
Model
Model Years
MERCEDES BENZ
C300
2018
MERCEDES BENZ
E400
2018
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Toyota Motor Engineering & Manufacturing
Subject :
Passenger Frontal Air Bag Inflator May Explode
Make
Model
Model Years
LEXUS
SC
2002-2005
PONTIAC
VIBE
2003-2007
TOYOTA
COROLLA
2003-2005
TOYOTA
SEQUOIA
2002-2005
TOYOTA
TUNDRA
2003-2005
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Toyota Motor Engineering & Manufacturing
Subject :
Sensor Wire may Break Deactivating Air Bags
Make
Model
Model Years
LEXUS
LX570
2008-2019
TOYOTA
LAND CRUISER
2008-2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Toyota Motor Engineering & Manufacturing
Subject :
Brake Master Cylinder Seal may be Damaged
Make
Model
Model Years
TOYOTA
TACOMA
2018-2019
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Hyundai Motor America
Subject :
Sunroof may not Auto-Reverse
Make
Model
Model Years
HYUNDAI
ELANTRA GT
2018
NHTSA Recall ID Number :
Manufacturer :
Ford Motor Company
Subject :
Block Heater Cable Splice Connector May Corrode
Make
Model
Model Years
FORD
F-150
2015-2019
FORD
F-250
2017-2019
FORD
F-350
2017-2019
FORD
F-450
2017-2019
FORD
F-550
2017-2019