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Friday, June 7, 2013

Dr. Gizmo Column

"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt

Foggy Headlights Need Extra Care
Question 1
I'm surprised by the number of headlamp restoration products on the market.  I've always assumed these plastic lenses could always be cleaned with soap and water or auto polish.  I know of one person who uses toothpaste.

 Is it really beneficial to purchase a headlamp restoration product to increase the effectiveness of the headlamps?  B.D., Woodbury, Minn.

Answer 1
No it’s not necessary unless the lenses fog from environmental attack.  The cost of headlamp capsules can put a dent in a household budget.  Due to environmental factors headlamp capsules can fog.  This greatly reduces the light projected by the bulb impairing a driver’s night vision. 

An inexpensive way to restore the clarity of a headlamp is to use a restoration product.  They are available at many auto supply stores.  Headlamps can be harmed by some waxes, soaps and the sun.  Studies have found carwash soaps and waxes have caused headlamps to fog so soap and wax products used in the carwash industry have changed.  Additionally, automakers have changed the composition of headlamp capsules so they are more environmentally tolerant. 
I don’t know if toothpaste could cause a capsule to fog or clear a lens but I would recommend not using toothpaste to restore headlamp clarity.  Instead use of a restoration product is the best route to a clear view of the road ahead.   

Brake Fluid Leak Ruins Module
Question 2
I have a 1999 Chevrolet Express 1500 van that I use for work.  It has a 5.0-liter engine and 127,000 miles.  It’s a great work truck and over the years I have not had any trouble with it until now.  The problem is the engine began to misfire and the check engine light turned on.  A mechanic replaced a speed sensor because it failed tests and the speedometer was off by almost 15 miles per hour.  It registered 60 mph when I actually was going 45 mph.  Now I know why everyone was passing me and giving me dirty looks and threats. 

Replacement of the speed sensor did not cure the misfire.  My mechanic replaced all the spark plugs and wires.  He also checked the compression and much more but did not find anything wrong.  Despite this the misfire continues.  Now he says brake fluid is dripping on the engine computer and that might be causing the trouble.
How can a brake fluid leak cause such a problem? R.K.P., email

Answer 2
I can understand your skepticism.  After all the circuitry of an engine control module is within a sealed metal case.  Unfortunately, the placement of the control module in your vehicle is under the brake master cylinder. 

Brake fluid is corrosive and the metal shell of the control module is comprised of two pieces.  The two pieces that house the circuitry are secured together with fasteners and a seal.  The seal is the part that is vulnerable to the effects of brake fluid’s corrosive action.  When the seal fails, brake fluid enters the control module and ruins the circuit.
To fix this trouble it appears the brake master cylinder and the engine control module might need replacement.

Cleaning Parts Leads To More Trouble
Question 3

I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey with a 3.5-liter engine and 98,000 miles.  Recently, I replaced the air filter.  I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor and throttle body with chemicals specific to the different parts.  On the mass air flow sensor I used air flow sensor cleaner.   To clean the throttle body I used throttle body cleaner, an old tooth brush and shop rag soaked with the chemical.  When I was finished the parts looked as good as new.  The trouble is that now the engine idles too high and the check engine light is on. 
I went to auto supply store for a scanner test to determine trouble codes.  The parts man found code P2279.  He said it indicates that there is an air leak somewhere in the intake system.  I checked all the ducts for improper fit or loose connections but everything looks fine.

What am I missing? D.L., email

 
Answer 3
Such trouble might be caused by air leaks at the positive crankcase ventilation valve, brake booster, intake manifold and or the throttle body.  Check all of these connections for air leaks.

Also, in the process of cleaning the throttle body there may be a leak due to a torn or misaligned gasket.  It’s also possible cleaning the unit with a toothbrush and shop rag damaged the unit as bristles or cloth fibers may have contaminated it.  If so, clean it again with just the chemical and keep your fingers crossed flushing will cure the trouble. 
If air leaks are not the cause of the trouble, further tests of the throttle body may find it needs replacing.

Battery Warning Light Shines But System Functions Normally
Question 4
The battery light is on in my 1998 BMW 528i.  It has 66,000 miles, a 2.8-liter engine and 5-speed manual transmission.  It’s in great condition.  I bought it three years ago and it’s been running great since the purchase.

I went to a repair shop where they checked the charging system and battery.  Everything checked out fine.  They did not know why the light is on even though they did several tests.  Since I did not know how old the battery was I asked them to install a new one as a precaution.
The light continues to shine.  Do you have any suggestions?  M.R.Y., email

 
Answer 4
Since your vehicle has rolled along for many years, it is possible ground connections have been affected by corrosion or have loosened.  A check of the ground connections is in order.

Also, sometimes a technician will overlook the basics such as checking fuses.  A blown fuse could cause the light to illuminate.  It’s possible this step has not been done so it might be a good idea to check the fuse panels for a blown fuse. 
It’s also possible a blown fuse will lead to a problem such as a short in a circuit that is related to the charging system.  If so, repairing a short could resolve all of your concerns and the light will no longer be an issue.

 
Cracked Part Causes Knocking Sound
Question 5
My 2002 Toyota 4Runner has developed a knocking sound.  I hear it only when the automatic transmission is engaged.  While I was at a quick lube a mechanic listened to it.  He said it sounded as though it is coming from the transmission and not the engine.

My truck has 138,000 miles.  I bought it new.  It’s in great condition.  It hasn’t given any trouble.  I take good care of it with oil changes every 3,000 miles.  I follow the factory severe maintenance schedule for everything else.  The transmission engages and shifts fine.  Also, the engine runs fine.  Should I be worried?  R.B., email

Answer 5
The noise may not be a precursor to impending doom.  Since the knocking only occurs when the transmission is in gear it is possible the flex plate also known as the flywheel is cracked.  This is a good possibility as your vehicle has a tendency for this issue.  If so, the transmission needs removal in order to replace the afflicted part. 

Ask your favorite technician to consider this when you visit a shop.

A/C Takes Too Long To Kick In
Question 6
The air conditioning compressor in my 2000 Jaguar S-Type takes up to 5 minutes to engage.  When I turn it on it does not cool.  As I drive I feel the compressor turn on and then cool air begins to blow from the vents.  Sometimes I have to wait five minutes before I feel the compressor turn on. 

I went to a repair shop where many tests were done.  No problems were found but the mechanic did agree that it takes a long time for the compressor to turn on.  He also said that once it engages it runs too long.  He does not know why.

Another technician at the same shop checked over the system with the same results.  He agrees the system is not operating as it should but suggested that I wait until the trouble becomes worse or the system quits working all together.  He said when that happens they will be able to find the cause of the trouble.  I’d rather not wait.
Have you ever heard anything like this before?  C.C., email


Answer 6
Stranger things have happened.  Your technicians more than likely checked system pressures.  It’s also likely they ran tests on the performance of control modules and other electrical components and found they are functioning normally at the time of tests. 

One part they may want to scrutinize is the relay that turns the compressor on and off.  Tests might find it is not performing as designed.  If so, replacement should cure the trouble.             


Thanks for all of your great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com http://www.drgizmo.ws 05/13/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present

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