"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt
Concern Over Oil Consumption
Question
1
Recently,
I purchased a 1996 Saturn for my daughter.
It has 193,000 miles on it. When
I start the engine there are no puffs of smoke, it does not leak any oil and it
runs great. The trouble is that it uses
one pint of oil every 750 miles.
Can
you tell me what’s going on? H.D., Bruce, Wis.
Answer
1
It
is normal for an engine to consume some oil between oil and filter
changes. When your Saturn was new it was
normal for it to consume a quart in 2,000 miles. For it to consume a quart in 1,500 miles at
193,000 miles is not unusual. After all,
the engine has undergone wear and tear over the last 16 model years. Also, it is not unusual for engines to
consume a little more oil during winter.
At
this point it is not necessary to do any repairs. Once wear increases to the stage where the
engine consumes a quart or more oil every 1,000 miles it will be time to
consider renewing the cylinder head.
Until then check the oil level twice a month. The best time to check is in the morning
before the car is put in service for the day.
In order to get a fairly accurate reading after the car is put into service,
the engine should be at operating temperature and the level should be checked
at least five minutes after the engine has been shut off to allow oil to return
to the oil pan.
When
the level drops to the add mark on the dipstick add the factory recommended oil
to the full mark. And of course, change
the oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
Swapped
Hoses Turn On Check Engine Light
Question
2
The
check engine light is on my 2001 Kia Rio with a 1.5-liter engine and 119,000
miles. There was an oil leak. I took the car to a shop to have it
repaired. After the repair I was on my
way home when the check engine light turned on and I noticed the engine did not
idle as smoothly.
I
returned to the repair shop where a mechanic did some tests. He found the engine was running lean. He thought something was wrong with the new
gasket he had just replaced so he gave me a loaner car and I went home.
When
the repair was completed I returned to the shop and drove home. After driving a few miles the light came back
on. I called my repair shop. The manager apologized for all the trouble
and asked me to return the car for more tests.
My
repair shop has been servicing and repairing our family cars for many
cars. I trust them but this issue has me
a little upset. This has never happened
before. Do you have any suggestions that
might return my car to normal? R.R.,
e-mail
Answer
2
This
might be a simple fix. I’m guessing the
valve cover gasket needed replacement as it appears the oil leak was a quick
repair. If this is true, ask your
technician to check the routing of the positive crankcase ventilation and
breather hoses. It is possible that
during reassembly the hoses were inadvertently swapped. It’s happened to many technicians. This misstep triggers the check engine light
and causes a poor engine idle.
Explorer
Whistles Upon Initial Start
Question
3
On
the initial start of the day, I hear a whistling sound coming from the 4.6-liter
engine of my 2007 Ford Explorer. It has
77,000 miles. The noise occurs during
the winter and lasts 5 to 10 minutes depending upon how cold it is. During warm months I don’t hear the noise at
all.
I’ve
taken the vehicle to my repair shop but by the time I get there the noise is
gone. One time I left the car for a few
hours but when the mechanic started the engine the noise only lasted for a
minute or so. It wasn’t making the noise
long enough for him to determine the cause.
I’d
like to get this fixed but with warm weather coming I’d like to know if you
have any idea what causes the sound?
E.C., e-mail
Answer
3
The
best thing to do is leave the SUV at your repair shop overnight so a technician
can hear the sound in the morning. Before
you leave the vehicle at the shop make sure weather conditions are ideal for
the sound to occur.
If
the noise is coming from the front of the engine the cause might be a faulty
idler pulley. Once a technician determines the noise is from
the front he should consider removing the serpentine belt. Once the engine is restarted, if the noise is
gone with the belt removed, the pulley more than likely needs replacement. If so, Ford Motor Company engineers have
designed an upgraded replacement part that should eliminate the sound for
perhaps the remaining service life of the vehicle.
Alternator
Not Up To The Task
Question
4
Last
fall three times my 2004 Honda Civic needed a jump to start. I took the car to a local shop where the
battery and charging system were tested.
The mechanic found that the alternator was not charging the
battery. He installed a new alternator
but after double checking his work he found the newly installed alternator
failed tests, too. He checked the
circuits and replaced a relay. This did
not cure the trouble. After more work
checking circuits he thought the problem was in the engine computer. He suggested that I take the car to a dealer
to have the computer reprogrammed.
I
took the vehicle to a dealership where after many tests they replaced the
computer. The trouble was fixed.
This
past month I had to jump the battery. I
returned to my local shop where a mechanic determined that the newly installed alternator
was not charging the battery. Tests
showed the engine computer was the trouble.
I returned to the dealer where testing suggested that the computer was
fine and the alternator was the trouble.
They told me I needed to install an alternator from Honda. I did not have them do the work. I returned to my local shop and told them
what my dealership recommended. The
mechanic tested the alternator and did find that it charges fine when the engine
is idling but at higher engine speeds it stops charging. He thinks the trouble is caused by the
computer, same as before.
Now
I’m stuck. My dealer blames the trouble
on my local shop’s alternator and my local shop blames the trouble on my
dealer’s computer. Can you help? L.T., e-mail
Answer
4
The
simple solution is to drive at idle speed at all times. All kidding aside, the fact that the
alternator passes tests at an idle and not at higher speed indicates trouble in
the computer. Unfortunately, it is
possible the alternator and computer are not compatible. Dealer personnel suggested installation of a
factory original equipment alternator.
This is a strong indication that your local shop installed an
aftermarket alternator. Since you are in
a situation where both parties blame the other ask your local shop technician
to install a factory original equipment part from Honda. In a situation such as this installation of a
factory original part often cures this type of trouble. If the installation resolves your car’s
condition, this saga will come to an end.
If not, both shops have misdiagnosed the trouble. Let’s hope a factory original alternator does
the trick.
Engine
Takes Hourly Break
Question
5
I
have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country with a 3.8-liter engine and 26,000
miles. I have owned it since it was new
and have not had any problems with it until now. I take great care of the vehicle with oil and
filter changes every three to four months.
It looks and drives as good as new.
The
trouble is that I can’t drive more than an hour straight. If I do the engine suddenly quits without any
warning or indication on the dash. When
it quits I can restart and drive a mile or so before it quits again.
I
have taken the van to two shops. Both
shops performed tests on the engine and fuel pump. They also drove the vehicle extensively
around town but neither shop found any problems. Both shops suggest that I wait until the
trouble is worse.
It
happens every time my drive exceeds an hour.
It’s almost like a time clock. I
can almost count on the engine stalling 61 minutes after I start my drive. I have to be driving for the problem to
surface. If I leave the car in my
driveway running for hours it will not stall.
Do you have any suggestions?
N.L., e-mail
Answer
5
Dump
it. I’m just kidding. With only 26,000 miles it is not even broken
in.
This
condition is consistent with a failing crankshaft or camshaft sensor. To find out for sure which sensor is causing
trouble a technician might consider testing the sensors when the engine
falters. This can be accomplished while
driving the vehicle under the conditions that cause the issue.
Make
prior arrangements with your favorite shop.
Consider driving the vehicle close to an hour and make your destination
the shop awarded the repair. Do not shut
off the engine when you arrive. A
technician should drive the vehicle from the shop with test equipment ready to
monitor sensors and modules. When the
engine fails your technician should monitor data streams and perform individual
tests of the sensors. A fault should
occur in the data stream when the engine falters. Individual test results of the sensors should
confirm which sensor has a fault and needs replacement.
Power
Steering Quit, Pump Rattles
Question
6
Last
fall I purchased a 2001 Hyundai XG with 144,000 miles. The car is in great condition and the
previous owner gave me copies of all the repairs and service he had done on the
car since he purchased it new. It runs
great.
There
is one problem. Two weeks ago the power
steering quit. I’m an engineer who
tinkers with cars. I am pretty good at
fixing them. The steering system in this
car is hydraulic and not electric. When
I turn the steering wheel all the way in either direction the power steering
pump makes a rattling sound. I removed
the reservoir and inspected a filter screen but did not find any metal
fragments or glitter in the fluid or screen.
I
don’t have a gauge to determine hydraulic pressure so I’m not sure if the pump
is the cause of the problem or if there is another problem. Do you think installing a new pump will
resolve the trouble? T., e-mail
Answer
6
Your
vehicle is known around the world. Here
in the United States 18,000 2001 XGs (AKA the Grandeur and Azera) were sold. Since it was first introduced about 1998
sales have been consistently between 15,000 to 18,000 units per year. Once the Genesis came on line, sales of the
XG rapidly dropped.
As
you are aware without actually testing the pump’s hydraulic pressure it is a
gamble that replacing it will fix the trouble.
Be this as it may, chances are high that a new pump will return full
function to the system.
More
than likely a replacement pump will not have a reservoir so be careful not to
damage the old reservoir or throw it away.
You will need to install it on the replacement.
Also,
as clean as the fluid may be don’t reuse any old fluid. Fill the system with fresh, clean fluid and
buy additional fluid so that you can flush the system after installing the
pump.
Additionally,
if you don’t want to flush the system in your garage consider having it flushed
at your favorite repair shop. This will
ensure removal of any debris in the system and bleed trapped air that can cause
noise and reduced power steering assist.
Good luck with your project!
Thanks
for all of your great questions. Dr.
Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and
A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.
Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013
or e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws. ® DR. GIZMO © 1989-2012
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