"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt
Brake System Fault In Newly Purchased Used
Vehicle
Question
1
Recently,
I purchased a 1997 GMC C1500 Sierra pickup with a 5.0-liter engine. Right after the purchase I noticed a pulsing
in the brakes. Also, for a second when I
apply the brakes they pull left and then straighten out. I checked the front pads. They look new. Also, there are new hoses on the
calipers.
I
took the truck to a repair shop where a technician verified that someone had
just replaced the brakes. He also did a
wheel alignment and checked the tire pressure.
Despite his work the brakes still pulse and pull.
What
do you think should be done next? H.L.,
e-mail
Answer
1
It’s
possible for someone to replace the brake pads and not machine or replace the
rotors. It’s also is possible air is
trapped in the system. Bleeding brake
fluid and air should be considered. In
addition it is possible a valve in the antilock brake system module may be
sticking causing the pulling. If
bleeding air from the module and lines does not cure the trouble it may be
necessary to replace the module which might cost a bundle. Also, the rotors may need machining or
replacement.
Worn
Engine Mount Causes Engine Stalls
Question
2
I
own a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica. Sometimes
when I put the transmission in reverse the engine stalls. When it stalls I hear a clunk sound just
before it stalls. It doesn’t happen
often but usually it happens in the morning upon the initial start of the day
or after the vehicle is parked for several hours. I found that if I wait for the engine speed
to drop before I place the transmission in reverse it does not stall. When it stalls it restarts without any
problem.
I
called my repair shop about the trouble. The manager assigned my call to a technician
who asked a lot of questions but could not come up with an answer. I took the car to him but after some testing
he could not find anything wrong. Also,
it did not stall for him.
I’m
concerned the engine will stall and not restart and I will be stranded. Do you have any suggestions? L.T., e-mail
Answer
2
This
indeed is strange but don’t fret there might be an explanation for the
condition. After checking industry web
sites a situation surfaced similar to yours.
As it turned out in another Pacifica the cause of the trouble was a
broken engine mount. When the engine was
started, and transmission was placed in reverse, there was excessive movement that
caused the engine to push against a wire harness. The movement pinched the wires and caused the
engine to shut off.
Ask
your technician to check the engine mounts for excessive wear. If a worn or broken mount is the cause of the
condition replacing an afflicted mount and a wiring harness repair should cure
this issue.
Lack
Of Fuel Pressure Stalls Engine
Question
3
My
2005 Audi A4 with a 4-cylinder engine sometimes stalls and the check engine
light turns on. If I shut off the
ignition and then restart the check engine light is off and the engine runs
fine until the next time it stalls.
I
took the car to a local auto supply store where a man checked the car with a
diagnostic tester. A code 89 showed
up. The man told me the fuel pressure
regulator has a problem. I wanted to buy
a pressure regulator but he suggested that I take the car to a repair shop for
more tests.
Do
you think the regulator is the cause of the trouble? J.M., e-mail
Answer
3
Diagnostic
trouble code P0089 does indicate trouble in the fuel pressure regulator circuit,
but this does mean that the regulator actually has a fault. It is possible there is faulty wiring, a
pressure sensor might have a fault or the fuel pump might have an internal
fault that causes stalling.
While
you are tempted to replace the fuel pressure regulator located under the intake
manifold it is best that you make sure it is the cause of the condition before
attempting the repair. Guess work can
result in replacing unnecessary parts and labor that can drain your bank
account. At this point consider the
advice given by your partsman. Take your
car to an experienced technician who can accurately determine the cause of the
trouble.
Headlight
Lasts Only Two Days
Question
4
I
own a 2004 Porsche Cayenne with a headlamp that apparently does not like
me. The bulb burned out in the right
headlamp. Thinking this would be a snap
to fix I replaced it with a bulb that I purchased from a large retailer. I installed it and it worked fine. Unfortunately, it worked only for two
days. I returned to the store and
purchased another bulb. Again it worked
only for two days. This time I purchased
a bulb from an auto supply store. Guess
what? Two days later it burned out. When I returned to the auto supply store the
counter person suggested that I take the car to a dealer to have the system
tested.
Is
there something I am missing? Could I be
doing something wrong? R., e-mail
Answer
4
By
the time this issue is resolved you will be a Cayenne Xenon bulb expert. You already have spent mucho dollars on
bulbs. You likely are not doing
something wrong but it is important not to touch the bulb with bare digits or
get dirt on it. Fingerprints and dirt
can reduce bulb service life but usually not down to two days.
The
lighting system in your vehicle has a sensitive headlamp capsule and control
unit that sometimes fails to perform when an aftermarket bulb is
installed. Since the bulbs are expensive,
consider taking the vehicle to a dealer to have the system tested and visually
examined. A technician may find the
system is operating as designed and installation of a factory original
equipment bulb may end your woes. Or, if
you don’t want a dealer technician to work on the vehicle, purchase an original
equipment bulb and cross your fingers it resolves the trouble.
Back
Pressure Impairs Engine Power
Question
5
My
2005 Jeep Wrangler SE with a 2.4-liter engine and 75,000 miles has been a fun
and reliable vehicle since it was new.
It hasn’t given a bit of trouble until now. Several times a day when shifting from second
to third gear the engine lacks power. I
push in the clutch to shift from first to second and the engine seems
fine. When I push in the clutch to shift
from second to third as soon as I engage the clutch the engine bogs down. I can
push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and the engine just slowly
accelerates to my desired cruising speed.
It takes forever to accelerate and shift into fourth, fifth and sixth
gears.
I
took the vehicle to my dealership and an independent shop. At both shops a mechanic checked over the
engine. They checked the fuel pressure,
sensors and spark plugs but everything seems okay. Both mechanics drove the vehicle and
experienced the trouble. The dealer
mechanic checked some wiring in the engine compartment but could not find a
problem.
I
take great care of my car with oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles. I follow the owner’s manual service schedule
for everything else. My Jeep is in great
condition. Can you help? T.C., e-mail
Answer
5
You
love your Wrangler. It will be well
soon. Ask your favorite technician to
check for excessive exhaust system back pressure. The catalytic converter may have failed and
is blocking engine exhaust flow. If this
is verified, there is a good chance an emissions warranty at your dealership will
cover the cost of replacing the part.
Operator
Parks Vehicle Due To Mouse Scare
Question
6
I
think the motor for the heater in my 2006 Chevrolet Avalanche is making
noise. At first I thought there was a
mouse in the truck. I placed traps in
the vehicle and didn’t drive until a mouse was found. After 10 days when no mice were trapped, a
friend checked the dash and glove compartment, but he did not find any evidence
of a mouse. He thinks the heater motor
is making noise.
At
times I hear a high pitched squeaking or squealing sound when the blower
control is set to low speed. Sometimes I
hear the sound when making a turn. The
noise seems to be coming from the area of the glove compartment.
Do
you think the sound is from the blower?
Is it going to cost me an arm and a leg to replace it? K.L., e-mail
Answer
6
The
sound you hear is consistent with the failure of bearings in a heater motor and
not a mouse. Besides, if mice were in
the vehicle they more than likely would jump on the dash or run across your
feet while you drive.
Now
that you are freaking out, the replacement of the blower in your truck is not
major surgery. Also, if you do a quick internet
search you will find prices for a new motor can range greatly from $20 to $450
depending upon the source. A factory
original equipment motor is at the top of the price list so weight your options
when selecting a shop to replace the part.
Most shops use an industry standard labor guide to determine what to charge
to replace the part. My labor guide
suggests three tenths of an hour to replace it.
Be sure to compare labor, parts cost and warranty before deciding which
shop is awarded the work.
Dr.
Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and
A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.
Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013
or e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws. Check out his automotive information blog
at http://drgizmo89.blogspot.com ® DR. GIZMO © 1989-2012
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