"Dr. Gizmo"
By Phil Arendt
Battery Dies In Key Fob
Question
1
I have a 2009 Mazda 6 and
have been having trouble with the key transmitter. I have to replace the battery just about
weekly. I contacted my Mazda dealer about the trouble. The representative knows of no recalls for
this problem. They told me they don't
know what could cause the problem and suggested that I bring the car in.
When my other transmitter
stopped working they wanted $350 to replace it. I don't want to spend $350 at this time. Have you heard of this problem before? P.B.,
email
Answer 1
This is an issue that might
be easily cured. First, recalls are
issued for safety related problems such as fuel leaks that can start a fire or
parts that break potentially causing an accident. Inoperative key fobs more than likely do not
fit the government standard for a safety hazard although it is possible a
lawyer could argue that not being able to open a door or start a vehicle is a
safety hazard.
Certainly there have been
troubles with the keyless entry fobs.
Some fobs for vehicles falling under certain vehicle identification
numbers were not snapped together all the way at the factory causing the key
and fob to separate. Other fobs have problematic
corrosion on contacts at the battery.
More than likely the trouble with your fobs falls under the terminal
corrosion issue. If so, replacement with
an updated fob is the cure. Ask your
dealer representative to refer to factory technical service bulletin number
09-013/09 for details addressing the condition.
Brake Pedal Spongy After
Brake Job
Question 2
For years I’ve been
repairing my family’s cars. I just
replaced the brakes on my daughter’s 2005 Toyota Camry. It has 110,000 miles, a 2.4-liter engine and
automatic transmission. I replaced the
rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, drums, springs, rotors and the master
cylinder. I also flushed all the fluid
from the system and used D.O.T. 3 brake fluid.
After all of this work the
brake pedal feels spongy. I checked for
leaks, pulled the drums and checked the calipers to makes sure everything is
working fine. I checked all of the
springs. They are proper. I also bled the system two more times and the
brake pedal still feels spongy.
In the past I have never had
this problem. What am I missing? R.R.N., email
Answer 2
Don’t let frustration
overcome the challenge to find the cause of the trouble. Once you find the cause, returning full
function to the system will be sweet.
Since your examination of
the rear brake cylinders, springs, shoes and front calipers found normal
function, suspicion points to a defect in one of the brake drums or master
cylinder.
It is possible there is a
manufacturing defect such as a crack in one of the brake drums. Give the drums a close examination. If one is cracked, return it to your
supplier.
It’s also possible a defect
in the master cylinder is at the root of the problem. Make sure air is not trapped in the
unit. If no air is trapped there might
be a defective seal within the unit. If
so, your supplier will be happy to exchange it.
Cruise Control Quits After
Transmission Replacement
Question 3
The cruise control quit
working in my 2003 Chrysler Town and Country.
The check engine light turned on when the cruise quit. My van has a V-6 engine and 170,000 miles. Coincidentally, this problem occurred on my
way home from a repair shop right after I had the transmission replaced. When I spoke with the transmission shop
manager about the problem he said that it was not likely that the work they did
has anything to do with the present problem.
A mechanic checked for computer codes and found code 123. He said there is a problem with the throttle
sensor. I did not have him replace
it. Instead I took the vehicle to
another shop.
The second repair shop found
the same trouble code. The mechanic
replaced the throttle sensor, but the cruise control still does not work and
the check engine light is on. Now he
says there is a problem in the wiring.
He says it is possible that something happened to the wiring when the
transmission was replaced. To fix the
trouble he might need to cut open a large harness to find the wire that is
causing the trouble. It might take a
long time and he wants to charge for the time it takes to find the bad
wire.
Is this coincidence? Did the transmission shop damage a wire? Do you have any suggestions? M.N., email
Answer 3
A check of the wiring in a
2003 Chrysler Town and Country found a large harness that runs along the
transmission. Certainly it could be
damaged in the process of replacing the transmission. A check of a wiring schematic of the harness found
wires indeed are connected to the throttle position sensor.
Consider going back to the
transmission repair shop. Ask the
manager to reconsider his position.
Also, instead of cutting open the harness to find the cause of the
trouble and then repair it he might be able to run a separate wire in place of
the damaged wire if in fact a damaged wire is the cause of all the trouble. This certainly would save a lot of time and
your vehicle will return to normal function.
Additionally, if a wire was damaged during the transmission repair, you
should not have to pay to have the inadvertent damage repaired.
Steering Quits After Battery
Replacement
Question 4
The power steering in my
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt quit working after the battery died. I
replaced it and the power steering was not working. I attempted to check the power steering fluid
but could not the tank that holds the fluid.
Is this a closed
system? How do I check the fluid
level? Why would it stop working after I
replaced the battery? Is there a
computer that regulates the steering?
N.L., email
Answer 4
Since there is no fluid
reservoir your car likely has electronic power steering. There is an electric motor that assists you to
turn the steering wheel.
It is possible that during the
process of addressing the dead battery a fuse blew. Check the fuses. More than likely you will find a large 50 or
60 amp fuse marked “steering” has opened.
If so, cross your fingers that nothing has shorted out in the circuit
and replace the fuse. If the steering
system returns to normal function you are one lucky person. If the fuse blows again there likely is a
short somewhere in the system. If the
motor has an internal failure due to a short or defect it needs replacement.
Additionally, some Cobalts
were affected by a safety recall for failing power steering motors. If luck is on your side it is possible your
car is affected by the recall and the repair could be free.
Poor Acceleration Despite
New Spark Plugs
Question 5
I own a 2003 Suzuki Aerio
with 110,000 miles. When accelerating
the engine lacks power. It takes forever
to reach cruising speed. I installed new
spark plugs and an air filter, but this has not helped. The check engine light has not turned on, but
I had the computer tested at an auto supply store. There are no trouble codes in the
computer.
Other than this problem the
engine runs smooth at an idle. It just
lacks power. Do you have any
suggestions? M.N., email
Answer 5
Dump it. I’m just kidding as usual. Your Suzuki should have plenty of life
remaining.
There are two conditions to
consider. It is feasible that the
catalytic converter has failed and is restricting the flow of engine
exhaust. Generally, this should turn on
the check engine light and set a malfunction trouble code but there is always a
chance a problem such as this will not set a code. A check of exhaust flow and back pressure to
the engine may find that the converter needs replacement.
Additionally, it is possible
the fuel pump is failing. It may not be
delivering pressure or volume within specifications. Testing the pump should find if it is not
performing as designed.
Ask an experienced
technician to consider these suggestions if you do not have the tools and test
equipment to perform the necessary work to determine these possible causes for
the condition.
Engine YieldsTo Overheating
Question 6
Recently, the 6-cylinder
engine in my 2004 Land Rover Freelander overheated. When it overheated, antifreeze was pouring
out of both sides. The vehicle was towed
to a repair shop. A mechanic determined
that the cylinder head gaskets failed.
He said he pressurized the engine and antifreeze poured out. He says the engine suffered severe
overheating. He said he could remove the
heads and replace the gaskets but he is confident the engine is ruined from
overheating. He says antifreeze mixed
with the engine oil and when that happens the bearings fail. He wants to replace the engine.
The shop manager gave me estimates
for installation of a used engine, an overhaul and a remanufactured
engine. The cost might be more than the
vehicle is worth. I did not run the
engine very long after it overheated. Is
it possible to ruin an engine in a few miles when it is overheating? T.G., email
Answer 6
Yes. Overheating is a serious condition. Continued operation under this condition can
cause extensive damage. What is described
as coolant pouring out the sides of the engine indicates it ran so hot it
almost melted into a molten glob of metal.
Your technician can’t be
sure of the damage until he disassembles the engine, but to disassemble it is
expensive and symptoms support his conclusions.
It’s likely time to replace it.
Since this is an expensive
repair, consider towing the vehicle to another shop for a second opinion.
Thanks
for all of your great questions. Dr.
Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and
A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.
Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013
or e-mail address drgizmo@drgizmo.ws. 4/27/2012 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989-2012
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