Dr. Gizmo Column

"Dr. Gizmo"

By Phil Arendt

Truck Won’t Start After Lightening Hits House

Question 1
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 XLT with a 4.6-liter engine.  Recently, lightening hit my house and blew some appliances and the phone lines.  Right after that I went to my garage to back out my truck and the battery was dead.  I installed a new battery and the truck cranked but would not start. 
Is it possible that the lightening damaged my truck inside the garage?  P.D., email

Answer 1

Lightening is unpredictable and powerful.  It is possible your truck was affected.  Contact your homeowner and auto insurance companies about the issue.  File a claim with the appropriate company.  Their investigation will determine what caused the trouble.  More than likely your truck will be examined by a technician.  The outcome all depends upon their investigation into the truck’s condition.

One Repair Leads To Another

Question 2
I have a 2006 Saturn Vue with a 2.2-liter engine and 77,000 miles.  A week ago I broke the ignition key in the ignition switch.  I tried to dig the nub out of the switch but failed.  I went to my local repair shop where they replaced the ignition lock. 

Two days after replacing the lock other problems surfaced.  The turn signals, power windows, power locks and air conditioner quit working.  I checked all the fuses but they look fine. 

I’m about to return to my repair shop.  Is this just coincidence or do these new problems have something to do with the new lock?  Is the ignition switch bad?  M.G., email

 

Answer 2
One problem could lead to another.  It’s possible the new lock has a defect that is causing the new issues.  The ignition lock and ignition switch are two different parts.  The ignition lock turns the ignition switch to start the engine and power accessories.  If the new lock is not functioning as designed it can impair the operation of the switch.  If this is verified your shop will need to replace the lock again.  This time the repair should be covered by a warranty.

 

Big Job To Repair Fluid Leak

Question 3
There is fluid leaking from my 2003 Volkswagen Passat.  It’s been leaking for a few days.  It looks like oil.  Over the weekend I raised the front of the vehicle on ramps that a friend loaned me.  The oil looks like it is coming from the rear of the engine between the engine and transmission. 

Could this be caused by a bad oil pan gasket?  Is it caused by a bad seal on the crankshaft?  Is this something I can repair at home?  R.D.K., email

Answer 3

This could be a big job that you might not want to tackle.  First, make sure that the fluid is engine oil.  It might be transmission fluid.

Secondly, I don’t know which engine is in your vehicle. Depending upon the engine and configuration you might have to drop the cradle that the engine and transaxle rests upon.  If so, it’s a big job that requires more equipment than you likely have at your home.

Also, if the fluid is from the transmission more than likely a seal at the torque converter or pump is leaking.  To fix that type of problem the unit has to be removed from the vehicle.  More than likely you are not equipped to handle that work. 
Before you make a decision on whether or not to tackle the task, please access the situation carefully.

Additionally, to determine which fluid is leaking consider placing clean cardboard under the area of the leak.  Once drips have formed, ask a technician to examine the cardboard.  He or she should be able to determine if the fluid is engine oil or transmission fluid.  If you ask an experienced technician to examine the vehicle on a hoist he should with a reasonable degree of certainty be able to identify the fluid, the source of the leak and provide an estimate to repair the condition.  In the meantime, make sure fluids are maintained at the proper level.

Keypad Fails To Function On Recent Purchase

Question 4
Recently, I purchased a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT with 47,000 miles and a 4.0-liter engine.  It’s in like new condition inside and out.  It runs great!  Unfortunately there is one problem.  The driver’s door has a keypad that unlocks the vehicle.  The previous owner said he forgot the code for the pad and after several tries gave up and used the remote key fob to unlock the doors.  The doors lock and unlock fine with the key fob but I would like to use the keypad on the door, too. 

How can I program the keypad?  B.R., email

Answer 4

I’m not absolutely sure but I believe the system is set up to disable the touchpad after seven or eight unsuccessful attempts to enter a vehicle owner’s preferred code.  There is a specific procedure to reset the system but you need to enter a factory code in order to program a code of your choice into the system.   The permanent factory code is somewhere in the vehicle.  For security reasons I can’t divulge the location.  Consider taking the vehicle to a Ford dealership for further assistance.

Once the system is functioning you should be able to program seat positions for specific drivers and more.

Power Window Opens But Won’t Close

Question 5
I’m pretty good when it comes to fixing my cars but this problem has me a little frustrated.  The passenger power window in my 1993 Mazda MX-6 does not operate at all from the driver’s door switch. The Driver’s window works fine.  The passenger window goes down from the right door switch but it won’t go back up.

I used jumper wires on the motor and the window goes up and down without any problems.  I also replaced the driver’s master switch but this did not cure the trouble.  I’m having trouble finding a switch for the right door. 

Is there anything else that might cause the trouble or do you think the trouble is caused by a bad switch?  L.R.B., email

 

Answer 5

Look on the bright side.  At least with jumper wires you can close the window.  That’s great because now you know the motor functions as designed and you can always leave the jumpers in position until you find a switch if indeed that is the trouble. 

Check for broken wiring inside the flexible conduit in front of the driver and passenger doors.  Repair wires if needed. 

If the wiring in both conduits is okay more than likely the trouble is in the passenger door switch.  If you have a multi-meter, test the switch.  If not continue your search for a replacement switch and pray installation of a new part will cure the trouble.

 

Newly Installed Used Transmission Operates With A Bang

Question 6
A week ago the automatic transmission in my 2004 Honda Accord with a 6-cylinder engine went bad.  I had a shop install a transmission from a junk yard that supposedly came out of a running vehicle.  Two days after the transmission was installed I began to hear a bang sound when the transmission shifts gears.  I returned to my shop where they checked all the bolts on a converter and where the engine and transmission connect.  They also drove the car and heard the noise.  They suggest sending the transmission to another shop where it can be overhauled.  Other than the noise it seems to operate fine.

Is there anything else that could cause the bang sound?  K.B., email  

Answer 6

While the noise might be from inside the transmission it also might be caused by misaligned, loose, broken or worn engine and transmission mount.  Ask your shop technician to make sure the mounts are in proper alignment and in good condition.  If they are okay, it’s time to send the transmission back to the salvage yard to exchange for another or have the present transmission overhauled.             

Thank you for all the great questions.  Dr. Gizmo can’t wait to answer more.

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician.  Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at P.O. Box 548, Cary, IL. 60013 or e-mail address mailto:drgizmo@hotmail.com. 09/09/2013 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 - Present